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Your veterinarian should initiate a discussion about spaying or neutering at the time of your first appointment, months in advance of the actual surgery. If he or she doesn't, then inquire. When the puppy is very young is a good time to start thinking about whether you want to spay or neuter your pet for preventative health care, birth control and to avoid some potentially undesirable behavior.

Many breeders offer pet quality puppies for sale with the stipulation that the dogs be neutered or spayed when they reach the appropriate age. This is the breeder's way of insuring breed improvement, by only allowing high-quality dogs to reproduce. You, of course, think your puppy is absolutely perfect. And it is - for you, and as a pet, but perhaps not as a model for future members of its breed.

Possibly the best reason to have your female spayed while she is young (most veterinarians recommend six months of age) is for its health benefit. Mammary gland cancer is much more common, in an unspayed (intact) female. If your puppy is spayed before her first heat (at six months, for example), her risk of developing breast tumors is substantially reduced. The odds are still in her favor, though diminished, if she is spayed after her first heat. But if you wait until she reaches maturity, say after her second or third heat, the operation will not reduce her risk of breast cancer. This is why it is important to have her spayed early in life.

Other reasons? The surgery itself, complete removal of the uterus and both ovaries, is ordinarily quicker and less hemorrhagic in immature females, so the risk of complications is reduced. Owners are spared the stress of having to confine the female who, when she comes into season, sends out enticing messages to male dogs in the vicinity. Furthermore, because the reproductive organs are gone, spaying eliminates the possibility of unwanted pregnancy as well as the regular heat period when dogs leave blood-tinged stains on carpets and furniture. Lastly, the potential infections, cancers and other problems involving the uterus and/or ovaries are eliminated along with these organs. Diseases of the male reproductive organs related to the presence of male hormones are not unknown, either. Although neutering represents an advantage as far as prevention is concerned, this is not usually the primary reason owners have their dogs castrated.

Most people want their dog to be neutered because they think it helps make him a better pet. This may be true, for the following reasons: Intact male dogs can act aggressively toward other dogs and people because they are trying to protect and control their territory. In the male mind, "territory" may be your property, its toys, females in heat, a bowl of food and so on. This type of behavior is unacceptable to most people and may be strongly influenced by the dog's male hormones. Neutering a dog with aggressive tendencies at an early age may reduce these problems. Castration is also recommended for aggressive older dogs, although its chance for success is less certain.

A neutered dog has less temptation to roam, too, as well as fight. He probably won't embarrass you at important dinner parties by seeking romance with your company's legs. And just as important, he won't contribute to the already burgeoning population of homeless puppies, something we should all be ashamed of.

Food and Water Bowls: A puppy needs a variety of basic items. Topping the list are a food dish and a separate water bowl. A mat to put them on is also necessary in order to save the floor from slurped water and spilled food. If your puppy has long, hanging ears, get dishes specially made to keep their ears out of the food or water. Consider bowls with weighted bases or non-slip bottoms so your pet cannot push them all around the room. For a dog that will be very tall, two dishes in a raised stand will keep food and water where they belong and at a comfortable height. Lightweight plastic bowls are not a good idea especially for a teething, chewing puppy. If your puppy is in an exercise pen, a water bowl is available that hangs on the wire and can be raised as he grows.

Food: Begin with whatever dog food the breeder was feeding, or ask your veterinarian for advice. You may also buy a top-quality food made especially for puppies. Vets today agree that it is not necessary to add vitamins or minerals to a quality dog food for a healthy puppy. Too many vitamins are actually detrimental, especially for large breeds.

Cookies and treats: Small, plain dog biscuits are ideal for "good puppy" rewards and an occasional treat. Fancy flavored treats are okay for adult dogs, but young puppies do better on a blander diet and fewer treats!

Collar and Leash: Collars come in all colors and styles. Just keep in mind that the puppy will outgrow several collars until he reaches his full size and he may go through as many as six different collar sizes as he grows. It is very sad to see a little puppy weighed down with a heavy chain collar and a leash strong enough to restrain a horse! Be sure each collar and leash you select matches the current size and strength of your puppy. Take him with you to the pet store to be sure you get the right collar, and keep in mind that you will probably be back in a couple of months for a bigger one. The leash will last longer, unless your puppy is allowed to use it as a teething toy, which is definitely not a recommended game.

Collars that can tighten around the dog's neck are meant to be used only as training devices and removed when the lesson is over. They are not intended for continuous wear because they are dangerous. If this type of collar catches on any immovable object, the dog can easily strangle in his efforts to get free. Stay with soft buckle or snap-closure collars for everyday wear. If you go for "motivational training," you will be staying with the soft collar.

Unless you are grooming your dog for the show ring, many brushes and combs can substitute for other types. For example, a pin brush can take the place of a slicker brush in some breeds while a hound glove can take the place of a curry comb.

In order to best use each tool for its specific purpose, below is a brief description of what each kind of brush and comb is specifically designed for. Select the tools that you need for your individual breed

1. Natural bristle brush: This brush has bristles that are softer, gentler, and less likely to cause static electricity in a dog's coat than artificial bristles such as those made from nylon. Natural bristle brushes are all-purpose brushes designed to smooth hair and distribute natural oils to the coat.
2. Pin brush: Pin brushes are generally used for long-haired breeds like Shih Tzu and Lhasa Apso, and heavily double-coated breeds like Old English Sheepdogs and Chow Chows. Pin brushes help to detangle long, tangle-prone coats and also work well on hard wire coats for an overall brushing before hand stripping.
3. Slicker brush: This type of brush has densely set wire teeth effective at removing mats and dead coat from long, wire, and curly-coated dogs. They are great when your dog is blowing coat because they efficiently remove large amounts of dead hair, but because they can also pull out some of the live hair, they are not ideal for show dogs who want to maintain lush coats. However, they are ideal for grooming heavy shedders around the house because they get rid of maximum amounts of hair with minimum effort.
4. Rubber curry brush: These oval-shaped rubber brushes are perfect for smooth coats because they polish the coat and remove dead hair, minimizing shedding, but the rounded rubber "bristles" are gentle on the sensitive skin of smooth-coated breeds.
5. Fine, medium, and wide-toothed combs: Fine and medium combs are best for dogs with soft, silky, fine to medium-textured hair. They work through the coat to remove any last traces of tangle, and they also double as flea combs to help remove parasites and flea dirt when present. Wide-toothed combs are better for breeds with very thick, dense coats, but they serve the same purpose: to remove all tangles after brushing. Combs should feel comfortable in your hand, and metal combs with rounded teeth are sturdy and gentle on skin. In dogs prone to static electricity, try a wooden comb.
6. Mat comb, mat splitter, and coat rake: These "combs" are specifically designed to remove mats in long and curly coats. These tools break up matted hair with angled teeth and work best in conjunction with a spray or liquid detangling product.
7. Hound glove: These gloves actually slip over your hand. They are covered on one side with natural bristles. Rub these gloves over your smooth-coated dog to remove dead hair efficiently, brightening and shining the coat.

There are many theories about the intelligence of the dog. The majority of dog owners know that their dogs are very bright: these owners can tell any number of stories that demonstrate the animal's high intelligence. In addition to the clever ways in which dogs outwit their owners, canine intelligence shines when dogs are asked to perform the tasks for which they were bred. For instance, the Border Collie is exceptionally quick to learn how to herd a flock of sheep, and only risk appearing stupid when you ask him to scent out a bird. The bird dog
who finds the bird naturally, without training, is labeled extremely intelligent. Yet this same genius will look dumb, and probably get trampled, if allowed to mingle with a flock of sheep.

Motivation is a big part of intelligence. One dog owner scheduled an appointment to have her dog evaluated after a discussion with her friend. The dog owner and her friend were convinced that the dog had a learning disability because the friend's Labrador Retriever could open doors with his nose and paw, whereas the other dog would just sit in front of the door and wait for someone to open it. The idea never occurred to this person that the dog didn't want to go through the door all that badly or that he was smart enough to wait for her to open it instead of expending energy.

Another client who owned and trained Border Collies labeled one of her dogs retarded because the dog did not appear to grasp the concept of retrieving as quickly as her other Border Collies. Once the training method was adapted for the dog's particular temperament, which was different from that of the typical Border Collie, she learned and enjoyed retrieving. This same dog would display aggression toward other dogs by growling and curling her lips to show her teeth. The trainers thought the owner was quite effective and consistent in correcting the lip curl until one of the trainers observed that when this "retarded" dog approached another canine, she quietly curled only one side of her mouth, the side the owner could not see.

Frequently, people believe that females are smarter than males. However, there is no evidence to date to support the theory of a significant difference in intelligence between the sexes. Those who claim there is a difference may be tainted by their prejudice toward or preference for one sex or the other. Intelligence is more apt to vary individually rather than by the sex of the animal.

The length and width of a leash has to do with the height of the handler and the size and weight of your dog. A tall handler with a small breed of dog will need a very long leash in order to keep the leash slack enough to offer comfort and taut enough to have control of his dog. A short handler will need a short lead if they have a large breed dog. For example, a person who is five feet ten inches tall with a dog sixteen inches high, weighing thirty pounds, would pick a six-foot leash that is one-half inch wide. Heavier dogs need wider, stronger leads. And keep in mind that with age, maturity, and growth, equipment use is changed from the soft and frequently colorful puppy equipment to more functional attire.

Leather Leashes: Most dog owners prefer harness leather leashes over latigo (typical) leather although latigo is strong enough for most breeds of dog. You may also prefer to have your obedience leash to be braided on both ends with a quality brass snap and no stitches or rivets. Personally, when I use a lead for protection training, I prefer the lead to be double stitched and riveted. These leads are one-half inch thick and three-quarters of an inch wide and four to six feet in length.

Cotton Leashes: Dog handlers have always used these leads for their durability and cost effectiveness. They are a comfort in your hand and are easy to find in any local pet supply store. You should still look for the leash with the brass clip. It may cost a bit more but is apt to last longer.

Nylon Leashes: Nylon leashes are very strong but can be a little rough on the hand if your dog forges on its leash. Advantages for a puppy are that nylon is hard to chew up, therefore there will be less mouthing on the lead. If necessary, the leash is porous enough to soak in taste deterrent and is washable.

Chain Leashes: Chain leashes definitely curb mouthy leash behavior. These leashes come in a variety of sizes. Should you choose a chain lead, be sure to pick one strong enough for your dog. Be sensible and avoid getting a tow truck line for your dog. For most situations this is an uncomfortable choice of leads, but some people value their strength. This is due in fact because chain leashes do tend to be strong.

Nail trimming should be introduced to your Pit Bull from the time he is a puppy. Start by handling the feet and nails daily and then begin by gently and carefully cutting the tips of the nails every week, taking care not to cut the nerve endings. Give your dog a treat after each cutting session.

More than just brushing his coat, your Pit Bull needs a regular bath. Start your bath training while he is still a puppy. Bring some treats into the tub to make bathing more enjoyable.

When cleaning the ears, avoid using a cotton swab because they can irritate the skin and pack debris into the ear canal. Do not use powder in the ear which can cake or hydrogen peroxide which leaves the ear moist. If you see a build-up of debris, clean it out by using an ear cleaning product that is especially made for that purpose.

Pit Bulls normally have healthy eyes. However, just like all dogs, they can suffer from eye problems that can rob them of their vision if left ignored. Examine your dog's eyes once in a while to check for any signs of abnormalities or discharge.

Brush your Pit Bull's teeth once or twice per week using a child or dog toothbrush and dog toothpaste. If it is hard for you to brush his teeth, your vet can provide a cleansing solution that helps kill plaque-forming bacteria.

This dog breed is very active along with great stamina and suppleness. Standing only18-20 inches, he has the strong and solid look of a Shepherd. The female Australian Kelpie should stand from 17 to 19 inches in height. Most dog owners prefer a larger and longer version of this breed.

The Australian Kelpie is considered to be a very tough herding dog and is a quiet worker capable of moving any livestock, though chiefly suited toward sheep and cattle. They are athletic and live mostly independent. The Kelpie has too much energy to be kept solely as a pet, though they are notably affectionate, especially with children.

The Kelpie must be kept very busy and so if you plan on being an owner of this breed then you must take into account this dog's strong herding instinct and realize he will not be happy if you and your family are all he has to �herd.� And though he is a tough dog that has an intimidating look for a small breed, he is not well suited as a guard dog.

Physical Description

The head is broad between the ears and the skull is flat which tapers to the muzzle. The ears should stand perky and be moderate in shape without spooning over. His eye spacing is considered to be wide for his face structure. They are shaped like almonds and are dark in color. The eye color may be light in some cases which will create a �mean looking� appearance.

The Kelpie's neck is thick and strong and the shoulders are narrow that slope downward. The chest runs deep. His Hindquarters should show breadth and strength with a longer than short haunch. The tail bends in a slight curve, raised when excited. Coat is moderately short, flat with a good undercoat. Colors include black, black and tan, red, red and tan, fawn, chocolate, and smoke blue.

Health and Life-span

When it comes to the Australian Kelpie's health he is one of high stamina. An amazingly athletic and adaptable dog, he does not suffer from any prominent genetic or hereditary conditions. This dog also possesses a strong defense against diseases. However, the one thing that will stress this dog's mental as well as physical health is lack of activity. Plenty of exercise and mental stimulation are extremely important. If the Kelpie is not able to move about and exercise regularly then the stress resulting from being sedentary will literally cause him to self-destruct. The average life span is about ten years.

Does your dog drive you and your family crazy by picking up a knick-knack and running crazy around the house with it, encouraging everyone to join him in a wild and crazy game of chase? The solution is simple: let him wear his leash around the house, and when he steals something, it will be easy to catch him and take it away. No game, no fun, no more stealing. Try this on your pup if she's become a thief; just be sure you're watching her so that her leash doesn't get caught on anything.

Next, to remove an object or a piece of food from your dog's mouth, act fast, before she's had a chance to enjoy it: grab her snout from the top with one hand and squeeze inward on the sides (pressing on her upper gums and teeth), and with the other hand reach in and extract the goods. Use the word "Out" or "Give," then praise her when she releases her grip. If she's really tenacious, hold her head still and blow very quickly and sharply in her ear; she'll unclench her jaws for a moment, and you can snatch away her prize.

Compared to other types of breeds, Dalmatians possess a very unique metabolism. They handles purines, the parent substance for the uric acid compounds found in certain meat and vegetable proteins, more like humans and apes than like other dogs. Dalmatians will not thrive on diets high in purines, and some will develop serious, life-threatening health problems or die prematurely as a result of such diets. Dalmatians are not capable of breaking down purines beyond the level of uric acid, whereas other breeds go a step further, converting uric acid to allantoin before excretion.

This trait creates the potential for Dalmatians to form uratic kidney or bladder stones and other diet-related health problems under certain circumstances. However, this breed- specific potential for trouble is not a disease; after all, humans have the same potential. Dalmatians simply have an unusual characteristic that must be taken into account by owners who want their pets to live a long and healthy life.

Few people knew which foods were high in purines, and many Dalmatian owners thought overall protein levels were the problem, rather than the levels of specific proteins that are high in purines. Professionals of all categories, including well-respected breeders, veterinarians, and pet food representatives, routinely recommended (and some still do!) products that are very harmful to a Dalmatian's health. It is no wonder that Dalmatians were not regarded highly by veterinarians. Many dogs had health and temperament problems because they were being systematically and innocently poisoned by their well-meaning but misguided owners.

Over the years, studies have been done with all kinds of dog foods, supplements and combinations of ingredients. Researchers have found that several commercially manufactured dry dog foods work well for Dalmatians. For the last several years they have successfully fed dry foods with no supplements. Although it may be hard to find a food that meets the requirements appropriate for a Dalmatian, it can be done as long as you know what you are looking for.

Researchers have concluded that they get excellent results with their adult Dalmatians from a dry kibble which is 19% protein, corn-based and contains a meat component provided by chicken. They offer it twice per day, preparing it by soaking it in warm water for fifteen minutes before feeding. Their dogs have not had diet-related problems of any kind. Also keep in mind that in addition to feeding an appropriate food, they made sure that their dogs always have fresh water available and get plenty of exercise daily.

To discourage garbage raiding, get a garbage can that has a locking lid. Or, simply put the garbage can in a place your dog can't reach, like under the sink. If you attempt to correct your dog when you catch him raiding the can, chances are that all he will learn is to avoid going on a "garbage hunt" when you're around. You'll essentially have created an owner absent garbage hound.

Your dog has lots of reasons to want to dig. Digging is fun and it relieves boredom. To prevent unwanted digging, don't let your dog spend unsupervised time in the yard. Go outside and watch him play or better yet, play with him.

If you don't want to ban digging, you can teach him that it isn't digging you hate, just digging everywhere. So, choose one spot and designate it as his digging pit. Think of it as his sandbox. Let him watch you bury a couple of tasty chew-toys. Then encourage him to dig in that spot to get them out. Your dog will learn that this is the best (and only) place for him to have his digging fun.

Mouthing and nipping are two different issues. Mouthing is a communication skill to get you to do a particular thing. Less pressure, less annoying, but still not particularly charming. Nipping is a puppy thing; it is interactive and playful. Nipping puppies are bossy and manipulative and need a firmer regimen.

Mouthing is often an attention-getting behavior. If your puppy uses it to communicate a need to go out, respond. If, on the other hand, your dog mouths you for a pat, ignore it. If he becomes too annoying, get a water spray and spritz him discreetly in front of his nose, hiding the spray in your hand and spritzing as you avoid all eye contact, comments, or pushing. When you use the spray this way, you are performing a cause-and-effect correction rather than interactive discipline. Interaction involves eye contact and physical manipulation - not good. Cause-and-effect corrections result in unpleasant reactions that your puppy will try to avoid.

Nipping is another one of those puppy things that you need to refocus. When your puppy still hung out with his litter mates, he nipped during play and to determine his rank. He also soft-mouthed his mother affectionately. When you bring your puppy home, this behavior continues.

This can be a real challenge. While there are alternatives, brushing is best. You just need to know how. The biggest problem with dogs getting their teeth brushed is that the idea is totally foreign to them. Nothing in their instincts prepares them for this, so take it slowly.

Rather than a regular brush, use a finger toothbrush. Use flavored toothpaste for pets, and start by brushing just the fronts of the front teeth. Always have a small treat ready and, after a 3-second tooth-brushing session, reward your pet's good behavior.

Brush just the fronts of the teeth once a day for several days, until your dog or cat seems comfortable with the whole thing. Follow with a treat every time. When your pet is accustomed to this daily routine, start with the front teeth as usual, but move your finger brush along to the teeth on the sides of the mouth too, then quit and give the treat. As he gets relaxed with this part of the routine, you move further back in his mouth. Remember to always start in the front and end with the treat.

A very early discovery about canine learning is the dog's tendency to generalize responses to strong stimuli. Therefore, the first stranger who must create stress and discomfort for a puppy, even if it is mild, can do a big favor for other strangers if the experience has a happy ending.

Most dogs tolerate veterinary treatment well; these dogs generally have an inhibitable type of nervous system and/or passive defense reflexes. However, the excitable and/or active defense reflex types may not tolerate treatment well can be a threat to the personal safety of those who must handle them. How can a veterinarian and staff members spot potential problem dogs and avoid the behavioral consequences of stimulus generalization? The solution lies in the practitioner's handling of the pet, and the client's behavior relative to treatment.

That dogs, and even people, can learn to tolerate painful stimuli is well known. If a painful stimulus is reinforced quickly with one that is strongly pleasant, the expected defense reactions are replaced by responses appropriate to the pleasant stimulus. Several veterinarians have put this principle into practice by sticking a doggy treat into their patient's mouth immediately after inoculations or treatment. This helps immediately replace a noxious stimulus (pain) with a positive stimulus (pleasant taste). Though not 100% effective, it has proved helpful.

However, the strongest forces acting on the pup or older dog commence well before treatment, and continue to affect the animal long afterward. These forces are social, emotional, and they are controlled for the most part by the pet's owner. For this reason, the owner's overall attitude toward the pup, its health, and veterinary care must be considered the primary determination in how a dog responds to veterinary treatment.

When an owner goes to a veterinary hospital with a dog that has just been hit by a car, the emotional prelude to treatment is usually steeped in concern, if not outright hysteria. Few clients have the insight to control their emotions in these situations - adopting the calm approach of a trained technician. In these cases it is generally wisest for the veterinarian to treat the injured pet without the owner present, thereby avoiding further emotional stimuli and their influence on the dog.

On the other hand, a dog or puppy experiencing its first visit for routine veterinary care can be conditioned to perceive the entire procedure as one of pleasure when properly handled by the owner. If, during the trip to and arrival at the hospital, waiting in the reception area, meeting the staff and veterinarian, during and (especially) following treatment, the owner is careful to display only happy behavior toward the pet and the external circumstances, the experience will be positive and socially rewarding for the dog. This behavioral routine is not easy for owners predisposed to overly sympathetic reactions toward the pet. However, when the importance of their behavioral example is explained, they usually comply.

History and origin: The Gordon Setter is a true Scottish breed, dated back to 17th century Scotland. He is the only native Scottish gun dog and was originally known as the Gordon Castle Setter due to the fact that he was bred at Gordon Castle, Banffshire. Many believe that he is a cross between the Bloodhound and the Collie. He was valued for his pointing, retrieving, and tracking ability.
Description: The Gordon Setter stands 23 to 27 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 45 and 70 pounds. He has a graceful, solid, athletic body. His shedding coat is of medium length, is lustrous and wavy, and needs regular brushing. The coat is always black-and-tan.
About the breed: The Gordon Setter is an excellent gundog, bird-finding dog, and watch dog. He is beautiful, graceful, intelligent, and makes a wonderful family pet. A Gordon Setter is very affectionate with his owners but suspicious and reserved toward strangers. He gets along well with children, provided they do not roughhouse. However, he may not be as friendly with the children's friends. He is a very active dog that need plenty of exercise. This breed makes a great jogging partner because of his leggy, agile build. He can be difficult to train because he learns rather slowly and may become passive-resistant if he is pressed too hard. Be patient and go slow with this breed, and be clear about what you are asking him to do. Allow more time for him to learn whatever you are teaching and do not use overbearing techniques. Some Gordon Setters have a tendency toward fear-based aggression toward people or dogs, so make sure yours is amply socialized from the first day. Take your dog to friends' homes, stores, and parks, but avoid any off-leash dogs that might scare your puppy. Introduce your puppy to as many people and animals as possible when he is young and impressionable.
Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 � � 2 � cans (13.3oz) of high quality meat product with biscuit added in same amount or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry food.
Ideal home: A house with a fenced yard is essential for this breed. The Gordon Setter is a very active dog and needs plenty of exercise, particularly jogging or field work. Older children are okay provided they are respectful and not rough. Obedience training and socialization are necessities for this breed and must not be hurried. If left alone too long, he may become vocal and destructive. The elderly and disable may have trouble providing the Gordon Setter with enough exercise.

Twenty percent of dog bites occur when a family member reaches to grab the dog by the scruff or collar. One doesn't need to be a rocket scientist to figure this out. Obviously, the dog has learned that when people grab him by the collar bad things often happen. Consequently, the dog becomes hand-shy, plays Catch-Me-If-You-Can, or reacts defensively. It is potentially dangerous to have a dog dodge you when you reach for his collar. For example, you need to know you could effectively grab your dog if he ever tried to dash out the front door.

So teach your puppy to enjoy being grabbed by the collar. First, prevent your pup from forming negative associations to human hands, and second, teach your pup that being taken by the collar has only positive consequences, like so:

1. If you let your puppy play without interruption, and then take him by the collar to end the play session, of course he will come to dislike your reaching for his collar because a collar grab signals the end of the play session. Starting in the house and later in the park, frequently interrupt puppy play sessions by taking your puppy by the collar, asking him to sit, praising him, offering a piece of kibble, and then letting him go play again. The puppy thus learns that being taken by the collar is not necessarily the end of the play session. Instead, a collar grab is a short time-out for refreshment and a few kind words from his owner before the puppy gets to play again. Also, interrupting play allows you to use resumption of play to reward your puppy for sitting and allowing you to take him by the collar.

2. If you lead or drag your puppy into confinement, he will no doubt come to dislike being taken by the collar, as he will come to dislike confinement. Instead, teach your puppy to enjoy confinement. Stuff a bunch of hollow chew-toys with kibble and put them in your puppy's confinement area, and then close the door with your puppy on the outside. In no time at all, your puppy will beg to go inside. Now simply instruct your pup, "Go to your bed (or crate)" or "Go to your playroom (long-term confinement area)" and open the door. Your pup will happily rush inside and settle down peacefully with his chew-toys.

3. Above all, promise your puppy that you will never (never) call your puppy and then grab him by the collar to reprimand or punish. Doing this just once will make him hate coming when called and hate when you reach for his collar. If you punish your puppy after he comes to you, he will take longer to come the next time. Eventually slow recalls will become no recalls. Your puppy will still misbehave; only now you will be unable to catch him! If you ever punish your puppy after taking his collar, he will soon become hand-shy, evasive, and defensive.

Since the dog population has increased in most cities, there are more owners who let their dogs run off leash in the parks. Many non-owners feel they are being crowded out of their favorite areas and, therefore, the police often ticket dog owners for having their dogs off leash. As a concession, many cities have converted small parks into dog parks that are just for dogs, or have fenced off certain areas of public parks - pen areas - where dogs can run free.

When taking your dog to one of these parks, don't let him bolt into the park even if he is familiar with the other dogs. Put him in a sit position for a few seconds at a safe distance away from the other dogs and then tap him gently on the back of the head and say, "Go play!" This sets a pattern for release where he learns when he is allowed to leave your side and play with other dogs.

Personally, I like dog parks because they provide a place for dog owners to take their dogs and not disturb others. But I prefer to see the whole city as a playground for my dogs, rather than letting them be outside in only a penned off area. I don't like to be restricted to a small area. I think a dog needs to be exposed to many different environments in the city to become well trained.

The Labrador Retriever's keen sense of smell and ability to train have earned him a place in many police and military forces around the world. During World War II, Labrador Retrievers were used throughout Europe to scout fields for undetected land mines. They were credited with many finds and exhibited a stick-to-it-iveness not found in other breeds that were tested for the job. They have also been trained as messengers to cover terrain that is all but impassable by man.

Many municipalities currently employ the services of skilled Labrador police dogs. They are primarily called upon for scent-discrimination details, such as tracking criminals in buildings or detecting hidden narcotics, weapons, and bombs. Once a substance has been detected, the
dog does not retrieve the material unless specifically ordered by his master, but rather indicates the location to his trainer. This is to insure against possible injury to the dog.

Vegetables: While a few vegetables may serve as natural vitamin sources, most vegetables have little value to a dog. Dogs can only digest about 30 to 50 percent of most of the vegetables eaten by man. Many of these vegetables are practically all water. What roughage they may contain can just as easily be obtained from cereal grains. Vegetables contain too little fat to be of any value as energy sources. Any plant protein they contain is likely to be of low biological value to a dog.

Fruits: Fruits are of even less value to the dog than vegetables are. The main vitamin for which fruits serve as a natural source is vitamin C, a vitamin that is not required in a healthy dog's diet. The healthy dog produces enough vitamin C from glucose to meet its MDR.

Other vitamin sources: Several other natural sources of vitamins are available to a dog owner to feed his or her dog. Some of these, like eggs, cheese, bread, and fish, have already been touched upon under other headings.

Of all methods, by far the most accurate and efficient way to provide a dog's requirement for each vitamin when compounding a diet from natural ingredients, is by using a vitamin mix. You must then calculate the exact amount to add that will provide an adequate supply of vitamins.

Mineral Sources: The minerals, like the vitamins, are best balanced in every diet by using a mineral mix in amounts calculated to supply the requirement for each mineral, and balanced to the caloric density of the diet. In natural diets most of the trace minerals are found in adequate amounts in the natural ingredients. It is important that the major minerals (calcium, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, and sodium) be balanced during diet formulation to insure that they are present in the diet in adequate amounts and in the proper ratio.

Bone meal: Bone meal contains calcium, phosphorus, and magnesium in almost the exact ratio required by a dog. As long as it is fed in a finely ground form, most of the mineral it contains will be usable by the dog. Bone meal should be added at about 1/2 ounce for every pound of raw meat put into a dog's diet. It should never be added in excess of 1/2 ounce per pound of the total diet.

Because it is inexpensive and easily available, bone meal is too often fed as the cure-all for any dietary mineral problem. This invariably leads to a greater imbalance in the mineral portion of the diet, not to its correction.

A knowledge of canine body language can protect you and your children around strange or threatening dogs. If you understand how the animal will interpret your body movements and facial expressions, you will know how to act in a nonthreatening way and avoid a possible aggressive attack. Here are a few rules to follow:

1. Never approach an unknown dog without first asking its owner if it's all right. If the owner is not around, don't approach the dog.

2. Never run up to a dog, or make quick, jerky gestures toward it that might be interpreted as a threat. Move slowly and deliberately.

3. Many people immediately squat down to be at a dog's eye level. Don't do this. Staring into a strange dog's eyes may be considered a challenge by the dog; an invitation to fight. If you get down low, you're telling the dog, "Look, I'm submissive to you."

4. When you meet a dog for the first time, make your hand into a loosely closed fist, fingers down, and extend it slowly to allow the dog to sniff your knuckles. Never put your open hand over the dog's head as if to pat it, because this is interpreted as a threat by many dogs. If the dog is calm and friendly, you can then turn your hand over, palm up, but continue to keep your fingers curled in lightly; then you can gradually uncurl your fingers and let the animal nuzzle your hand if it wants to.

5. If a strange dog approaches you, stay still. If you're standing, put your arms at your sides. Don't raise your arms as the dog may think that you are threatening it. If you're on the ground, lie face-down. Let the animal sniff at you - soon it will lose interest and go away.

6. Adults should never snatch a small child away or up from a dog, because the animal may then perceive the child as a toy; a stuffed animal to run and grab. If an adult calmly places herself between the child and the dog, the dog will understand that she's being protective, and that's pack-related behavior.

7. Running away is interpreted by a dog as flight behavior and almost always triggers an instinctive chase reaction in a dog, in which it sees you, the runner, as potential prey. To sum up, stay calm and use common sense around any dog. It will understand by your reactions and body language that you are not a threat and will leave you alone.

Some dog owners and dog trainers expect their dog's level of thinking and smartness to be the same of humans, when being trained. This mistaken assumption about dog psychology can be devastating to the expectations of both the dog owner and the dog itself.

Trainers shouldn't assess canine intelligence against human standards. Each individual canine may possess his own unique talent. If the occasion does not arise for the animal to display this talent, it doesn't mean he's dumb. For centuries, behavior experts have been trying to devise a test that measures all aspects of human intelligence and have failed miserably. With this success rate in mind, how can canine experts profess to measure the dog's intelligence when we do not even speak the same language?

Labeling a dog dumb can be as unproductive and damaging as labeling humans. If an animal is labeled dumb, the owner usually gives up trying to teach the dog. The label then becomes self-fulfilling because if his owner won't train him, the dog really won't know anything.

On the other hand, labeling a dog smart may create unrealistic expectations and disappointment if he doesn't respond as expected. Perhaps all these "dumb" dogs are just clever enough to make their owners think they are dumb to avoid the effort of obeying! A very frustrated Basset Hound owner complained to his instructor that he had spent a month trying to teach his dog to sit on command and the dog just didn't get it. As the owner was explaining his dilemma, the instructor was mindlessly playing with a piece of liver that she had not put away after working with another dog. The Basset noticed the liver and began nudging the instructor. From pure habit, she told the dog to sit. The Basset plopped his rear end down as fast as Bassets do. This is a good demonstration of learning theory proven long ago that a lack of response does not mean that learning is not occurring. This dog was learning, the owner just hadn't found the right motivator to get him to respond.

Perhaps canine intelligence is not measurable, particularly when the criteria for intelligence are measured on another species' yardstick. Fortunately, regardless of breed, the great majority of dogs are intelligent enough to grasp basic obedience commands when training is intelligently presented. A trainer armed with motivating training methods and a good understanding of the principles behind canine learning can shape a dog's behavior into desirable conduct.

Many dog owners consider the �Go lie down� as their favorite command. The �GO lie down� not only tells the dog to assume a reclining position, it tells him to do it elsewhere. When you are talking on the phone, drinking hot coffee, or working out, �Go lie down� is the command you need to send your overly affectionate dog someplace else. Do not feel guilty if you cannot give attention to him every time he asks you to. If he's just had his walk, he's eaten well, you've exercised him, trained him, played with him, �Go lie down� is a humane, handy answer to your own personal dog problem.

Before you begin with the exercise, put your dog on leash. Point toward a corner of the room you two are in. Tell him in a pleasant tone, �Go lie down.� Now, run with him to where you were pointing, repeating �Go lie down� followed by �Good boy� with a final �Down� as you pat the floor in the corner of the room.

Now, pat your dog's head. Go across the room and sit down. If he stays, after a minute or two tell him �Ok, good boy.� You can even pet him when he approaches you. Now repeat the exercise about two more times, varying the minutes that he stays in position.

Each day, try this exercise three times. Work in different rooms so that he will do this no matter where you are. This is preferable to the command �Go to place� or �Go to your bed� because you will want to use this in places where your dog is and his bed isn't.

What happens if your trained dog lies down on the spot when you say �Go lie down?� Some people would find that funny. They would think that when the dog heard �down�, he ignored the other strange words and just obeyed the command he had already learned. They would think that the training was going so well. But you know better, so you will calmly say, �No-Go lie down�, taking the dog by his collar and transporting him against his will to the far side of the room, the side you pointed to.

If your dog makes this mistake early on, it is a genuine misunderstanding that you can and will correct without taking it personally and with patience. However, if your dog is already doing the �Go lie down� and then when you say it he lies down at your feet, beats his tail on the floor and pastes his ears back, he's acting. He is using passive assertion to get his way instead of doing your bidding. Don't be mad. He can't help it if years of selective breeding made him smart, assertive, and witty. Dogs are built to try to rise to the leadership of their packs.

Some dogs take the obvious, aggressive route to the top. Others are more subtle in their attempts. In either case, it is not a personal affront, nor is it to be accepted. It is part of being a dog owner that you look at your pet, think about his behavior, understand him, love him, and remind him of the limits you have set for him. In fact, the �Go lie down�, aside from being very useful, is another wonderful, nonviolent way to remind your dog that you are the leader of the pack.

History and origin: Bulldogs were first used in England during the Middle Ages as baiters and fighters of bulls. They were originally bred to have courage and tenacity similar to the Mastiff. These early dogs were incredibly aggressive. It was not until the 19th century that the present personable temperament was achieved.
Description: The Bulldog stands 13 to 15 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 40 and 60 pounds. He has a dense, powerful body, an extremely blunt muzzle, a pronounced under-bite, and a short, smooth shedding coat that requires regular brushing with a fairly stiff brush. The color may be brindle, white, fawn, red, or patched.
About the breed: The Bulldog is a courageous, intelligent, sweet, stubborn, incredibly strong dog that is filled with athletic enthusiasm. Despite his ferocious appearance, this breed has a docile temperament. He is extremely personable and loving, but because of his strength and enthusiasm, he is not always the best choice for the elderly or the disabled. Though normally not aggressive, he may resist training because he has a stubborn streak left over from his bull-fighting days. The Bulldog needs training from early on, particularly in learning not to pull on the leash, not to jump up on people, and in general to contain his exuberance. He is a fast-learner and loves taking part in games. He loves children and gets along well with strangers; just make sure he does not get overenthusiastic and knock your friends or your children with his bowling-ball body. Training should start form puppy hood and should be firm and persistent. You must gain adequate control of this eager, powerful, stubborn breed early in life. The Bulldog is susceptible to respiratory problems. He will snort and sneeze, spewing out undesirable secretions, usually while licking your face. The Bulldog also snores. In addition, the deep wrinkles on his face and forehead tend to get infected if not cleaned and powdered with cornstarch once a day. Some Bulldogs may need eyelid surgery if a condition known as entropion sets in, causing the eyelids to turn in so that the eyelashes rub against the cornea. This breed is also sensitive to extremes in temperature and can easily become overheated. Finally, because of his heavy frame, the Bulldog can develop structural problems and arthritis later in life. Do not take this dog jogging or let him get overweight.
Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 can (13.3oz) of high quality meaty product with biscuit added. 1 teaspoon of cod liver oil daily is recommended in winter.
Ideal home: An apartment is fine provided this breed is exercised regularly. The owner of a Bulldog should be an active, capable leader who desires a sweet, personable, vigorous dog that is good with family and friends. Children are fine as long as no roughhousing is allowed. The elderly and the disabled may have difficulty dealing with this breed's high level of enthusiasm; the Bulldog can be a very physical animal and, in his eagerness to play, may knock his owner down and cause an injury. Time to train, exercise, and socialize this breed is important.

The uses of dogs that capitalize on aspects of their instinctive intelligence have become more varied in today's world. A quick sampling of some of these contemporary dog careers includes:

1. seeing-eye dogs, who guide their blind masters around obstacles, warn them of approaching vehicles, and allow them to navigate independently, even in the complex urban environment;

2. Hearing-ear dogs, who alert their deaf masters to sounds, such as the ringing of a doorbell or telephone or the whistle of a teakettle;

3. Search and rescue dogs, who are used to track and find individuals who are lost or buried by debris in earthquakes or under snow in avalanches;

4. Water rescue dogs, who retrieve individuals and objects from the water, swim lines out to stranded boaters, and even drag small boats to waiting rescuers;

5. Drug and explosive-finding dogs, who use their scenting abilities to find contraband materials. A variation on this are the dogs that find truffles for connoisseurs of this delicacy. They are better than the pigs that have been traditionally used for two reasons: dogs have keener scenting powers, and they don't like the taste of truffles, so there is less worry that they will eat them before the gatherers get to them.

Origins: The Poodle was originated in Germany and was first used as a water retriever. The breed's name comes from the German word �pudelnass� or puddle. He is now kept as a companion dog and a showdog.

Description: The Standard Poodle stands 15 inches or taller at the shoulder and weighs 50 to 65 pounds. The coat is curly and non-shedding and needs to be clipped every two months. The English saddle clip and the continental clip are high-maintenance show cuts. The sporting clip is easiest to maintain. In this style the hair on the body is about an inch long, there is a pompom on the tip of the tail, a topknot of hair remains on the head, and the face, feet, and tail are clean-shaven. Daily grooming includes using a wire-pin pneumatic brush and a wire-toothed metal comb. The colors may be black, white, apricot, gray, chocolate, or cream.

About the breed: This breed is an obedient, intelligent, alert, agile dog that is always friendly and eager to please. He has a good-temperament and is normally good with strangers and yet he makes an effective watchdog. He has a character that is full of fun but sometimes gets him into trouble. The Poodle's high level of energy is not for those who seek a lazy, easygoing dog. He needs plenty or exercise, particularly retrieving which is a constructive, enjoyable exercise in which he can excel.

Poodles learn quickly. Many are seen in the obedience ring and in agility competitions. They will respond well to training as long as you avoid heavy-handed techniques. The Standard Poodle can be one of the best family dogs around and can get along wonderfully with children. Again, Poodles need regular clipping, and it will be wise if you begin the handling, nail-clipping, and brushing sessions early in the dog's life.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for the this breed is about 1 � cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 3 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home: The Standard Poodle needs a house with a fenced yard. The owner of this breed should be a patient, consistent leader who prefers a smart, happy, energetic dog capable of excelling in obedience. This breed is very light on his feet and therefore makes a good jogging partner. He enjoys the company of children. Spoiling this dog could encourage stubborn, nippy behavior. Time to train and exercise this breed should be available. The elderly and the disabled may have a hard time controlling this big and active breed.

The French Bulldog has a compact, muscular body with bat-like ears and a straight or screwed tail. He is a happy, affectionate and devoted dog who loves being around people and has a keen, clownish sense of humor. This breed gets along well with children, able to tolerate other dogs and even enjoy the company of cats. He is initially reserved with strangers but warms up to them quickly. He is alert, intelligent, and easy to train. He is perhaps the healthiest of all the Bulldogs and does not suffer from the over-developments of nasal difficulties of the Boston Terrier and the English Bulldog. Though mildly stubborn, he responds well to patient and consistent training techniques, although spoiling may increase his stubborn nature. He can be difficult to housebreak. He is a relatively clean dog that can get by with minimal exercise.

Size: The French Bulldog stands 10-12in at the shoulder and weighs between 18 and 28lb.

Health care: This breed may suffer from respiratory problems. Extra care must be taken in order to protect his protruding eyes. He does not cope well with extremes in temperature and may wheeze and snore.

History and origin: The French Bulldog was developed in England and France during the 19th century. However, it is unclear whether he derives from small English bulldogs taken to France by Nottingham lace workers or from crossings with dogs imported to France from Spain. In any event, this lovable breed is obviously the descendant of small Bulldogs and has always been primarily a companion dog. By the beginning of this century, he has been a favorite in both United States and Britain.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for the French Bulldog would be 1 � 1 � cans (13.3oz size) of high-quality meat product with biscuit added in equal amount or 3 cupfuls of a complete dry food.

Exercise: An apartment is adequate for this breed. He needs minimal exercise consisting of short, regular walks once or twice per day. Do not overexert this dog, especially in warm weather.

Grooming: The French Bulldog has a short, smooth shedding coat that requires daily brushing and rub down with a silk handkerchief.

The Kerry Blue Terrier, also known as the Irish Blue Terrier has a strong, sturdy body and a short and curly coat. He is an active, athletic terrier that is affectionate with his owners, marvelous with children, a great watchdog, and a tough competitor in the show ring. His Irish descent has made him a rugged workman who is capable of a day's ground chores. The Kerry Blue is stubborn and needs a consistent and firm training method. The �Stay� and �Come� commands are usually the most difficult to teach. In addition, early socialization is important. This breed has a tendency to be aggressive toward other dogs as well as small animals and suspicious of strangers. It may be difficult to keep small pets such as cats or rabbits in a home with this breed. He needs to be well trained and be able to learn to respect his owner's leadership. This breed needs an owner who is confident, firm, patient, and persistent. The Kerry Blue Terrier may be restless and noisy if left alone for too long. Overall, he makes an ideal house pet and lives an average of 15 years.

Size: The Kerry Blue Terrier stands 17 to 20in at the shoulder and weighs between 35 and 40lb.

History and origin: The Kerry Blue originates from the county of Kerry in south-western Ireland in the 18th and 19th centuries. He was believed to be a cross between the Irish Terrier and Bedlington Terrier, and some think that the Bull Terrier may have also contributed to the breed's make-up. He was considered as an all-around utility dog. He started his life as a hunter of foxes and badgers. Being a keen and strong swimmer, he has also been used for otter hunting. This breed has also guarded livestock and saw Army service during World War II. Nowadays, he is mostly kept as one of the most popular pet and show dog.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for the Kerry Blue Terrier is 1 � 1 � cans (13.3oz size) of high-quality meat product with biscuit added in same amount or 3 cupfuls of complete dry food.

Exercise: He is a working dog that needs and deserves plenty of exercise. The ideal place for this breed is a house with a fenced-in yard. However, he can easily adapt to an apartment living as long as he gets enough exercise. With proper training, the Kerry Blue Terrier is an excellent breed to jog with.

Grooming: The Kerry Blue Terrier has a short, curly coat that sheds very little and needs to be brushed daily with a stiff brush and metal comb. In addition, the coat needs to be clipped every 2 to 3 months.

Lure Coursing: Lure coursing is somewhat akin to Greyhound racing but is held in fields
with twisting courses over uneven ground. Lure coursing is designed to test a dog's agility, as well as his speed, endurance and prey instinct. The dogs are taught to chase a lure, which is really a plastic bag, and their enthusiasm for the chase is an unforgettable sight. For more information on this sport, contact the American Sight-hound Field Association.

Hunting: Hunting is as natural as walking to many dogs and by using natural talents they can perform both vigorously and happily and give you physical rewards at the same time. Anyone who has worked with his dogs in the field, whether hunting birds or small game, will tell you that there is nothing as thrilling as watching his dog work the field, fetch game or take a point and hold it. There are many types of competitive events available for hunters and information may be obtained from the AKC on field trials and hunting tests for sporting dogs and field trials for hounds, all at varying levels of competition.

Therapy Dogs: Therapy dogs are increasing in number by the day. Hospice services, Nursing and convalescent homes, centers for gifted children and even hospitals are opening their doors to visits by therapy dogs. These dogs can be of any age or breed (some organizations request only registered therapy dogs; others welcome any well-behaved and loving pet) and are only expected to be very stable and accept much petting and loving from the residents they are visiting. These dogs can sometimes elicit responses from the ill or handicapped better than nurses, doctors or even family members. Most dogs instinctively realize when a human is suffering some form of handicap.

Visits with a therapy dog may be just the thing that will bring relief or happiness to an otherwise ill or hard-to-reach person, and your joy at seeing your dog relate to these people is more than worth every minute of your time. To find therapy groups near you, inquire your local Kennel Club or organizations dedicated to the needs of nursing-home residents, convalescents and mentally-challenged persons.

These are just a few ideas for you to think about. There are many other organizations devoted to preserving the natural instincts of their breeds, such as the Newfoundland Club of America, which sponsors water tests. Many breed or group specialty magazines, such as Gun Dog, publish information for fanciers of the upland bird and waterfowl dog. In addition, many major dog food companies sponsor all sorts of hunting, obedience and conformation events.

A psychosis is defined as a mental disturbance of such degree that there is personality disintegration and loss of contact with reality. The line between neurotic and psychotic behavior is not well defined, even by psychiatrists and psychologists. Two prevailing criteria can be added to the definition of a neurotic dog to describe, for this purpose, a psychotic behavior. These involve circumstances in which the dog's behavior is dangerous to himself or to the safety of others, and in which the dog appears to be unaware of the behavior during and/or very shortly thereafter his actions.

If only the first criterion were to be applied to biting or self-mutilating dogs, then they would incorrectly be considered psychotic. In fact, many people believe that any biting dog should be labeled as a "psycho" and destroyed immediately, regardless of the circumstances. On the other hand, if the second element applies, and the dog is unaware of his behavior, it would seem reasonable to apply the psychotic label. The dog that appears to have withdrawn from reality or suffers episodes of withdrawal could be either psychotic or physically ill. If the behavior fits the basic neurotic model and is also in some way harmful to life or well-being, then the animal may be psychotic, if otherwise healthy.

Dogs that are defined as psychotic have included the following symptoms: Dogs that suffer "avalanches" of rage for no clinical reasons and do not respond to external stimuli; manic-depressive animals that vacillate between depression and wild activity; and depressed dogs that fail to respond even to powerful stimuli, such as hunger, as when dogs starve to death in the presence of food. These cases have been seen in pet dogs as well as laboratory animals. The rage and manic-depressive states occur mainly in excitable types, whereas depression usually occurs in those with inhibitive tendencies. Some notable factors in the medical histories of apparently psychotic pet dogs are listed below.

* Early distemper (before 3 months of age).
* Serious parasitic infection (before 6 months of age).
* Severe beatings.
* Accidental injury, especially to the spine and/or head.
* Accidental drug overdose.
* Prolonged corticosteroid or other drug therapy.
* Diabetes
* Extreme psychic trauma.

The underlying physical problems are rarely, if ever, investigated with the same dedication applied to humans with similar conditions. As a result, the dogs are generally destroyed, which solves the owner's immediate problem, but offers no progress toward understanding of the problem's causes.

Mutual trust and understanding are required between the hunter and his dog before a satisfactory retrieving companion is developed. The intelligent Labrador Retriever, brought up as a house pet with the love and understanding of the person who is to take him hunting, requires a minimum of training in order to accomplish the job. Much of this training can be done in the house and a few minutes a day is enough. Such things as blind retrieves and hand signals can become a game in the house with the dog learning to trust his nose as one of the important by-products.

Introduction to feathers can be accomplished by tying feathers on a dummy or using a pigeon or chicken wing with the feathers intact. Remember that a Labrador should hand you the object retrieved and not drop it on the ground as is allowed with other breeds. This is also one of the requirements for a working certificate for a show dog. One important thing should not be overlooked and that is allowing persons to throw just anything for a dog and not requiring the dog to bring it back and give it to them. Let toys be toys, but certain definite other things should be reserved for training.

If a dog has a tendency to go off with the object you are training with outdoors, it is a good idea to reduce the available working space so that evading you is minimized. In such circumstances, moving away from the dog may induce following and the training object may be retrieved as the dog passes. His game of keep-away is thus converted to delivering the object for reward of the praise bestowed upon surrender of the object.

For outside work, training involves getting your dog to go far out, which is not possible in the house. Introducing him to gunfire must also be done outdoors. You can find a training aid called a dummy thrower that is very useful, but test it without your dog the first time as the dummy goes a long way.

For dog owners wishing to use a whistle for signals, one of the product that you can get is the Acme Thunderer. With this type of whistle, one can almost talk as it is possible to make various other sounds. One blast is commonly used for a dog to sit wherever he is, and three blasts to summon the dog to come towards or all the way back to you. The single blast is used also to signal for the dog to pay attention when you plan to use hand signals.

History and origin: The Saluki is one of the most ancient breed of dogs and may very well be the oldest domesticated breed. The Egyptians, Mesopotamians, and Persians all have records of Saluki-type dogs used by the nobility as coursing hounds in hunting rabbits and small gazelles. He was bred for speed and agility and has exceptional vision.

Description: The Saluki stands 23 to 28 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 40 and 60 pounds. He has a lean, supple body, and a short, silky, shedding coat that is feathered on the legs, thighs, tail, and ears. The coat needs to be brushed daily with a soft brush and a hound glove. The color may be white, cream, tricolor (black, white, and tan), fawn, beige or red.

About the breed: The Saluki (Gazelle Hound) is a natural hunting dog, a great guarddog, an outstanding showdog, and a faithful house pet. This breed is a sight hound, both behaviorally and physically. He is fast, agile, and has excellent vision. He is aloof and reserved with strangers and prefers not to interact with those outside his family. Strangers should be advised not to pet a Saluki without giving the dog time to get accustomed to them. Training can be difficult because this breed is somewhat stubborn and does not process information quickly. The training technique must therefore be slow and precise, with no overbearing methods. If you push too hard or too fast a Saluki will stop thinking and become passive-resistant or may become snappy.

The Saluki is naturally healthy, clean, and odor-free; a quiet dog that prefers a predictable, environment with a space to call his own. Too much hectic activity may stress him out. This breed is reliable with children as long as no teasing or roughhousing is allowed. Though affectionate with his owners, do not expect a Saluki to be as loving and desirous of touch as a Lab or a Golden. If you prefer a clean, quiet dog that is not always at your feet begging for attention, then the Saluki might be the dog for you.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for the Saluki is 1 � 1 � cans (13.3oz) of high-quality meaty product with biscuit added in equal part or 3 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home: The Saluki will adapt to an apartment living as long as he is exercised regularly. A daily run is recommended. The owner of a Saluki should be an easygoing leader who is not looking for an extremely active, social dog, and who instead prefers a dog that is content to curl up on the sofa. Overbearing, impatient persons should avoid this breed, as should pampering types and those with young children. The elderly and the disabled will need to be able to exercise a Saluki if they are to own one. The owner of a Saluki must find time to train and socialize the dog as often as possible early on in order to modify his aloof, suspicious nature.

When you catch your dog behaving badly, you have to discipline him immediately. Below are tips on how to properly do it.

1. Don't react to the evidence. Control yourself. Don't say anything. If the dog is in the room and you enter, avert your glance from the evidence as soon as you notice it. Even if the dog is already running away , don't say anything.

2. Go and get the dog. He may shiver, shake or freak out as you approach. Sometimes sidestepping toward the dog helps. Approach quietly. Don't say anything. Grab him by the collar and bring him to the evidence, quietly but firmly. Sit him in front of the accident. Don't say anything.

3. Keep some upward tension on the collar to keep the dog in the �Sit� position. Focus his eyes on the accident. Do not put his nose in front of it, but do firmly orient the dog's head down toward the elimination. Don't yell or whine. Keep your voice flat and deep. Focus the dog for just two to three seconds on the mess.

4. After letting the dog raise his head, give a strong tap under the chin or a firm shake under the neck, continue scolding and taking the dog's collar, march the dog to the appropriate place for elimination. Do not pick the dog up to take him to this area.

5. If you have to put him in the back yard, take him out and then leave. If you have to take the dog down an elevator and onto the street, do it as fast as possible and give him a slight scolding without nagging as you exit. If you are taking him to a paper, say, "This is where you go!" in a low, firm voice, and leave him there. You will find that you only have to stay two or three minutes in the area you have escorted him to. The dog will be so shook up that he will probably not eliminate (he just went in the wrong place) but you have to make the connection for him as to where he is supposed to go.

6. Make the transition from inappropriate area to appropriate area as swift and smooth as possible. Obviously, it is helpful if the distance to be covered is short.

7. When you return, isolate the dog for at least fifteen minutes and clean up after him. Don't let the dog see you clean up. He shouldn't be able to because he will be isolated. The only exception is if you are paper training and the dog misses the paper by a wide margin. You then have to discipline, take him to the paper, and then turn and clean up. Even in this instance, try to turn your back to him and make the clean-up swift.

8. After thirty minutes, let the dog have some freedom and be friendly to him, but not overbearing. Don't try to make up your guilt over disciplining your dog by coddling him at this point. You did what was proper and what his own mother would have done if confronted with such a situation. The correction has been made and the episode is over. This should be your attitude. Any extremes of overbearing or continued nagging will just confuse your dog.

Several thousand years ago dogs were initially domesticated for their functional value; hunting helpers, village and stock guards, even body-warmers in bitter cold climates. These basic functions are no longer required by modem civilization and, the dog's capacity to cooperate within a group for the mutual benefit of its members is stifled - frustrated. Without some meaningful functional nurturing, dogs grow older, mature physically, but behave like puppies emotionally - seeking attention and care, totally frustrated, denied any competent guidance toward filling an acceptable role in the family.

On the human side of the equation, as we become increasingly dependent on verbal skills and electronic communications, a pet animal is sometimes our only meaningful daily contact with the animate, natural world. However, without an opportunity to develop nonverbal communications with animals, dog owners tend to use human verbal and physical abilities (vocal commands, scolding, manipulation, force, punishment) to communicate with their pets. Most people mistakenly think dogs must simply be "trained" if they are to learn how to behave properly. When training fails, both owner and dog become frustrated, and problems develop. While formal (deliberate) training is an important element in a satisfying relationship, informal training is at the root of most problem behavior.

Dogs learn from, and react to, the way people behave. Movement, stance and sound communicate with dogs. On the other hand, as dogs struggle to communicate with people through their own movements, postures and sounds, they are too often misinterpreted; or ignored. This only widens the frustrating communications gap for both parties.

It may seem far-fetched to propose that behavior consultants should help dog owners learn how to interpret their pet's behavior, then use movement, stance and special sounds, in order to communicate effectively, and hence, live together harmoniously. However, it is not unrealistic at all. Once the basics of effective human/canine communications are learned and applied, they play a crucial role in correcting behavior problems humanely and effectively.

It doesn't occur to most dog owners that shouting at a barking dog is, in fact, joining in the racket - responding with the human version of the same behavior. When their dogs do become silent, it is because they associate the owner's tone of voice with disapproval and/or fear of impending pain from punishment. Excitable types, or those with some prior traumatic experience, usually become worse.

In the non-verbal world of dogs, silence means quiet, inaction begets stillness, and movement stimulates action. The fact that this patently obvious facet of non-verbal communication must be written or talked about to gain attention among dog owners further points up the extreme verbal orientation of humans. Spoken language is just noise to dogs. It is a tribute to their adaptability that they actually learn the meaning of certain key sounds, which usually comes about through a combination of the dog's intelligence and the owner's almost accidental consistency when referring to certain events or objects.

Is your dog having a problem with diarrhea? Does he have �accidents� while trying to get outside to go to the bathroom? While your dog may not loosing too much sleep over the problem, there is no doubt that you are not happy with the runny mess being made in your house!

Diarrhea in dogs often happen because of eating something rotten from the outside, or even from getting into a chemical inside of the house. There are times when he may have an intestinal virus that could be the cause. Perhaps you suddenly changed his diet which may be a contributing factor to the problem.

Below are several tips in which you can use to effectively help your dog recover from diarrhea:

1. Do not let your dog have a continual feeding of food in the dish. If you stop putting food in your pet, then he will stop having to use the bathroom. So it is obvious that once you notice your dog has the runs, simply stop feeding him for 24 hours after the onset of diarrhea. This alone could be enough to knock out the problem. However, if after 24 hours have gone by and there is still a problem with your dog's bowel movement, then contact your vet immediately because something could be seriously wrong.

2. Try feeding your dog bland foods for a while to keep her stomach calm. When your dog is ready to begin eating again you may want to have a week at feeding bland foods to keep her digestive system calm. Such bland foods may be skinless chicken or cooked white rice. Another ideal food that fits perfectly for the sour stomach is boiled hamburger meat.

3. Remove any dairy products from your dog's diet. Because most dogs lack the enzyme �lactase�, they have a very difficult time digesting milk. Lactase is needed to properly digest the sugar in milk.. If you are feeding your dog any type of milk product and she has diarrhea, then completely eradicate milk from her food choices. You will see dramatic improvement within days.

4. Keep your dog's system flowing with plenty of liquids. When your dog has diarrhea, his body is depleted of liquids and essential fluids. Be sure to keep your dog's water bowl full at all times. And like people, dog's also loose a lot of minerals when their body is depleted of fluids, so it is a good idea to keep a separate bowl filled with Gatorade. Gatorade is an excellent liquid that will help your dog's body with getting enough of the potassium and sodium that it lost.