dig by dog

Once you have decided that a Labrador Retriever is the right dog for you and your family, you are now ready to begin the search for a puppy that will hopefully be an ideal pet for the entire household, one that will be fun training to retrieve and can be used as such during the hunting season.

Whether it would be a male or a female is something that you need to decide before buying a Labrador Retriever. For those who want to acquire a hunting dog, a male is preferable because a female may come in heat just when she is needed as a retriever. However, in other circumstances, there is really not much difference; each sex has advantages and disadvantages. Either will wander if enticed away by neighboring dogs, or stay at home to be
with their family.

For the prospective dog owner, a good way to find the right Lab is to go to dog shows. There are dog magazines that you can buy that list the shows with dates and where they are going to be held. At a dog show, talk with as many people as possible, especially with those who will put you in touch with active breeders. Unfortunately, many successful breeders are
"kennel blind," believing so strongly in their own type of Labrador that they do not see the faults in their stock. However, breeders are flattered when a serious beginner asks their advice; and the more intelligent the questions asked, the more interest there is in helping the new breeder to get started. The successful breeder is the one with many satisfied customers, and it is important for the beginner to talk with owners of Labradors from some of these kennels before visiting the place.

This is a big country, and you may end up buying a high-priced puppy from a person you have never seen, so you have to make sure that you will get what you are paying for. This involves talking with a great many Labrador owners and breeders and eventually deciding
upon a breeder whose advice you believe to be trustworthy. No one is infallible; miracles rarely happen and we never get perfection, but with proper research and planning, mistakes can be minimized when buying a puppy which you hope will be a superior, all-purpose pet.

At first, the beginner can rarely see the difference between one puppy or dog within a breed and another, especially if they are all the same color. It takes constant training of the eye to distinguish various differences between the Labradors one has the opportunity to see. Also, there is more involved than visual appearance in selecting the ideal puppy. A beginner will be more capable in choosing the right breeder than the right puppy and should rely upon the breeder to make the selection.

Coming when called, or the �recall�exercise, is an important step in a dog's training school. If the class is working in a circle, it is done the first time toward the center of the circle and the second time away from the center toward the outside walls. To teach the recall in class, the instructor tells the group:

�Handlers face the center of the room with dogs sitting at heel position. Command your dog to stay. Face him to the full length of the leash. Hold the leash in your left hand. Stand up straight with your feet spaced apart to prevent the dog from darting off to one side! Call your dog by name! 'Sparky, come!' or 'Sparky, front!' Gather the lead up with both hands and when he is close, command 'Sit!' Praise and pat him immediately! Say 'Stay!' and move back again to the end of the lead. Call your dog! Keep your voice happy! Coax your dog to come!

When he obeys, tell him with more authority to sit! Praise him! If the dog doesn't respond the moment he hears his name and the command to come, snap the lead quickly, but loosen it at once. It is done with a motion similar to snapping a whip. You will hear the collar click when you do it correctly.

Don't pull or drag your dog to you or he will never want to come! Use a cajoling tone of voice after the command and after each correction. Use the lead to make the dog sit square
and as close as possible, and to prevent a dash in the opposite direction. Next, make your dog go to heel position! (The handlers will now have their backs to one another, ready to
call their dogs in the opposite direction.) Tell your dog to stay and face him to the full length of the lead! Now circle back to heel position. We'll alternate the recall with the sit-stay exercise.

This will teach your dog not to anticipate your command by coming before he is called. Tell your dog to stay and face him again. Stand up straight! If you lean over, the dog will crawl in instead of coming gaily. Call your dog! Use his name! If your dog doesn't come on your first command, snap the lead hard and then coax him in the rest of the way! Keep your hands low and in front of your body. Gather up the leash in a hand-over-hand motion."

The instructor should watch to see that the command to come is given first, followed, if necessary, by a sharp snap on the lead, which is loosened immediately. The dog must want
to come of his own free will. Remind the owners: "Stand erect with your feet apart to discourage the dog from darting off the one side. Gather up the leash as the dog comes forward. Command 'Sit!' when the dog comes in front and correct him if he sits crooked. Don't forget to pat him."

Dalmatians are considered old when they reach seven years of age. There are certain changes that occur as dogs age that changes their nutritional requirements. As they age, their metabolism slows and must be accounted for. If maintenance rations are fed in the same amounts while metabolism is slowing, weight gain may result. Obesity is the last thing a dog owner wants for his Dalmatian, since it increases his risk of several other health-related problems.

As pets age, most of their organs do not function as well. The digestive system, the liver, pancreas and gallbladder are not functioning at peak effect. The intestines have more difficulty extracting all the nutrients from the food consumed. A gradual decline in kidney function is considered a normal part
of aging. Elderly dogs need to be treated as individuals. While some benefit from the nutrition found in "senior" diets, others might do better on the highly digestible puppy and super-premium diets. The latter diet provide an
excellent blend of digestibility and amino acid content, though many are high in salt and phosphorus than the older pet really needs.

Older dogs are also more prone to developing arthritis and therefore it is important not to overfeed them since obesity puts added stress on the joints. For Dalmatians with joint pain, supplementing the diet with fatty acid combinations containing cislinoleic acid, gamma-linolenic acid and eicosapentaenoic acid can be quite beneficial.

A little spoof training

Pc Hagen at the front the PD Flack and Pc Wallace with PD Brett, 16 October 1981. Part of a search in north Nottinghamshire.

Below are 3 ways in which you can administer your dog medication. As with anything your pet would rather avoid, be patient, gentle, and firm - and follow with praise. If you're having trouble medicating your dog, talk to your veterinarian about alternatives.

1. Liquid medication: Ask your veterinarian for some large syringes, with the needles removed. These are marked on the sides to make measuring easy, and they're easier, too, at getting liquid medicine in the right place. Raise your dog's muzzle and lift her lip on one side. Ease the tip of the syringe to the back of the throat and then release the liquid in a slow, steady stream.

2. Ear medication: Lay a large towel across your lap and coax your dog to put her head on top of it with gentle massage and encouragement. Apply ear drops, massaging the base of the ear gently.

3. Eye medication: Have your pet sit between your legs and hold her muzzle up from behind. Gently apply a line of medication from the tube across the length of the eye, being careful not to touch the surface. Try to hit drops squarely in the center. Close the lid for a couple of seconds to let the medication distribute evenly.

History and origin: Although known primarily as a Scottish breed, Deerhound-type dogs have been around since ancient times. He was bred primarily to hunt with his owner and bring down large deer. This breed has a rough coat that protects him from the cold. Though he is known as a sight hound, his sense of smell is also acute.
Description: The Scottish Deerhound stands 30 to 32 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 75 and 110 pounds. He has a lean, athletic, lanky body that is similar to but thinner and slightly shorter than that of the Irish Wolfhound. The Deerhound's shedding coat is medium-length, rough, wiry, and weather-resistant. It requires periodic brushing and an occasional trim. The color may be blue-gray, fawn, light gray, or brindle.
About the breed: He is a hardy, graceful, beautiful, and dignified breed that is typically quiet, gentle, and reserved with strangers. Though lazy and easy-going in the home, he does need a daily run to stay happy and healthy. The Scottish Deerhound prefers a quiet, predictable environment and does not easily tolerate teasing from young children. He may also be dog-aggressive and has a high prey drive toward small animals. This breed needs obedience training and socialization from an early age to combat his timidity and increase his confidence. He may bite if scared or annoyed. Training must be slow and precise because this breed learns slowly. Overbearing methods may cause him to panic or become passive-resistant, a condition in which a dog stops thinking and seems frozen. Patience and consistency are required. The �Sit� and �Come� commands may he the hardest to teach to this breed. The Scottish Deerhound usually lives only ten to twelve years and can suffer from bloat or torsion of the stomach, an often fatal condition. To help avoid this, break the dog's feedings down into at least two a day, and soak the dry food in warm water for five minutes before feeding. This will minimize the chance of swelling and of gaseous buildup in the stomach, which is a leading contributor to bloat.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for the Scottish Deerhound is 1 � � 2 � cans (13.3oz) of high-quality branded meaty product with added biscuit in equal amount or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry food.
Ideal home: A house with a fenced yard is recommended for this breed. Keep in mind that these dogs can jump a six-foot fence. The owner of this breed should be patient and easygoing, never harsh, loud, or hyperactive. Pampering types should also pass, as should those who are looking for an extremely gregarious, playful dog. Deerhounds are not recommended for families with young children. The elderly and disabled might have trouble providing this breed with enough exercise. Time to train and socialize is imperative and should begin from puppy hood. Daily exercise is also important; a jogger might enjoy this dog. A blanket or bed should be provided for this breed to lie on because of the lack of fat and muscle padding on his frame.

Definitely attached to dog (source)

Dwyer F., Bennett P.C. & Coleman G.J. (2006). Development of the Monash Dog Owner Relationship Scale (MDORS), Anthrozoos: A Multidisciplinary Journal of The Interactions of People & Animals, 19 (3) 243-256. DOI: 10.2752/089279306785415592

Rohlf V.I., Bennett P.C., Toukhsati S. & Coleman G. (2010). Why Do Even Committed Dog Owners Fail to Comply with Some Responsible Ownership Practices?, Anthrozoos: A Multidisciplinary Journal of The Interactions of People & Animals, 23 (2) 143-155. DOI: 10.2752/175303710X12682332909972

Archer J. & Ireland J.L. (2011). The Development and Factor Structure of a Questionnaire Measure of the Strength of Attachment to Pet Dogs, Anthrozoos: A Multidisciplinary Journal of The Interactions of People & Animals, 24 (3) 249-261. DOI: 10.2752/175303711X13045914865060

Handlin L., Nilsson A., Ejdebäck M., Hydbring-Sandberg E. & Uvnäs-Moberg K. (2012). Associations between the Psychological Characteristics of the Human–Dog Relationship and Oxytocin and Cortisol Levels, Anthrozoos: A Multidisciplinary Journal of The Interactions of People & Animals, 25 (2) 215-228. DOI: 10.2752/175303712X13316289505468

© Mia Cobb | Do You Believe in Dog? 2014

I had a 4 day weekend all to myself for Memorial Day and it was fabulous. I managed to not over book myself and spent lots of time with my own dogs for a change. The weather was even pretty good for most of it which meant some nice walks. I did a couple of training tracks in long grass with Jenny and she did great. Much better than I expected. I need to start adding more distance and turns. I found a video of another pug doing tracking on YouTube. I was very pleased to see we arent the only pug trackers out there. Score another for pugdom. VBG I love this photo of Jenny because she is showing her pushy bratty self. Jack is a very tolerant boy.