dig by dog

Until about 20 years ago most dogs could still eke out a living on table scraps. With the advent of modern merchandising methods, both the quality and the quantity of the usable scraps has declined. Meats are sold already trimmed and boned, carefully wrapped in cellophane and cardboard, and ready for cooking without additional alterations. Frozen foods have eliminated trimmings from vegetables, and dairy and poultry products come from cartons and coolers, not cows and chickens. Everything is prepackaged in convenient quantities so that purchases can be adjusted to family appetites with almost no leftovers.

The scraps from a meal made from these pre-trimmed, pre-battered, pre-buttered, pre-cooked, and pre-packaged foods consists of only bits and pieces which are either inedible or unwanted by human beings. Such bits and pieces make neither a balanced nor an adequate diet for a dog.

The true value of today's table scraps are succinctly brought home when the dog owner who feeds his dog table scraps asks himself, ''What would I do with these scraps if I didn't own a dog?" lf his answer would be to save them in the refrigerator for his own next meal then a dog can probably eat the scraps, too. However, If he would throw the scraps into the garbage can, then he is literally feeding his dog garbage when he feeds table scraps.

There is an even greater danger in table scraps. In spite of their poor nutritional quality, table scraps frequently are quite palatable to a dog. All too often such table scraps are used with the idea of increasing the palatability of a less palatable, but better balanced, commercial food. Unless the scraps are finely chopped and blended with the commercial foods, most dogs will simply pick out the table scraps and leave the balanced food behind.

Most table scraps are fats and carbohydrates, yielding lots of calories and little else. As a consequence, the dog obtains a sizable portion of its daily caloric need from the useless scraps and loses his appetite entirely for the commercial food. By refusing to put table scraps on the food, a dog owner may feel he is forcing his dog to eat a food it does not want. But, in the long run, most dog owners will agree that it is better to starve a dog with concern than to kill it with kindness.

Most dogs enjoy playing and swimming in the water. Sometimes, they may go in the pool or the ocean in which they cannot get out. They start to get weak and swallow water and debris. When this occurs, it is important to drain the water from his mouth and clear his airway first before you begin administering the artificial respiration.

If you have a small dog, hold him just above the hocks on the hind legs to allow as much water as possible to drain from the lungs. An unconscious dog may be shaken moderately, but never vigorously. If you do not see any sign of breathing, you must immediately lay him on his side and start administering artificial respiration.

If you have a large dog, you need to lay him on his side with his head at the lowest possible position. The next step is to lift his hind legs as high as you can in order to drain the water from the lungs. Allow 30 seconds for drainage before starting with the mouth-to-nose resuscitation until the dog starts to gasp.

To prevent your dog from future accidents in the water, cover or fence off all swimming pools and garden ponds. Make sure that your dog is supervised every time he goes in the water. Do not let him enter turbulent water conditions with strong undercurrents.

Walking your dog on the street may seem like a nice stroll for you, but if your puppy is not used to it � life can be very stressful for the little guy. Knowing your puppy's temperament will help you prepare for his reaction to different noises and situations on the street. Here's how some of the different temperaments react on the street:

1. A hyper puppy is going to focus quickly on different distractions but not for long periods of time. Use a strong motivator to your advantage to keep him at your side.

2. An aggressive or bold puppy is very focused and usually moves straight ahead when walking. You want to be careful with a strong-headed and confident puppy - such pups can get territorial and possessive. You need to be aware of this type of possessive behavior developing. You can curb this behavior by placing him in a sit or down position at safety zones on the street when another puppy or dog approaches.

3. A happy-go-lucky puppy is happy to be at your side, and he will tend to pull from side to side. You need to anticipate his quick move of wanting to pull or jump up on people as a greeting.

4. A shy puppy may feel less sure of himself and will hold back if something frightens him. Be sensitive if he seems frightened. Place him in a safety zone to reassure him. This will give you distance between you and the distraction.

You don't want your puppy to have a negative experience from any new environment. By working in a positive manner with his temperament, he will respond more calmly and with self confidence to new environments.

Also be aware of your puppy's body language. It can get him in trouble with other dogs without you or your puppy knowing why. For example, if your puppy walks with a puffed-out chest, he may convey a cockiness that will receive a growl or a snap by another dog who sees your puppy as a threat to his territory. Or if your puppy is stalking low to the ground, you may think, "Gee, isn't this cute," but if your puppy approaches a territorial dog in this manner, the dog may read your stalking puppy as a challenge to his territory and snap at him. If this is your pup's nature, then it is even more important to move him aside to a safety zone, place him in the Sit position, and wait for the other dog to pass.

Obesity is a very big problem in our society, and this problem goes for dogs as well. All dogs are susceptible to gaining weight as they become less active in old age. But some breeds have been reported to be more likely to become obese than others as they watch the birthdays fly by. West Highland white terriers, beagles, cocker spaniels, collies. cairn terriers, and retrievers are breeds that are noted for obesity in old age.

Older dogs are about twice as likely to be overweight as younger dogs, probably because of genetic factors as well as people feeding them high-calorie treats from the table. Also, smaller dogs can run around the house for exercise, but larger dogs need to be taken out. Because most dogs depend on people to take them out, it doesn't always get done.

As adult dogs become elderly, a number of factors limit their exercise - including their physical and physiological condition (and perhaps that of their owners as well, if the owners are also slowing down a bit). So, lack of exercise coupled with the same amount of treats as they had when they were younger can lead to obese pets. Female dogs are more likely to be obese than male dogs and cats, and spayed animals are more likely to be obese than reproductively intact ones.

Here's an interesting statistic: Pet owners who are 40 years old and older are more than twice as likely to have obese dogs as younger owners are. Not only are the owners getting older and probably less fit, but so are their pets! Further, about one-third of owners of obese dogs do not consider their dogs to be overweight; they consider their dogs to be in the normal range of weight.

I suppose the worst-case scenario would be a couple of spayed female Labrador retrievers who are about 14 years old, living with elderly "nurturing" (literally - with food) owners. Both the owners and their dogs are arthritic and overweight, with poor aerobic conditioning. Or maybe the owners smoke and have shortness of breath with even moderate exercise, and they enjoy fried foods and feed their dogs from the table or the couch (of course) or from anywhere else in the house. The owners equate feeding the dogs with giving them love. It's the proverbial "recipe for disaster"! So do anything you can do to prevent your dogs from getting fat and out of shape. This may also be a good reason to watch your own levels of activity and diet.

During breeding, some female dogs tend to be uncooperative. Therefore, it is usually necessary to assist your young stud. If you are there helping him and praising him, whether or not your help is actually needed, he will expect and accept this as a matter of course when a difficult female dog comes along.

Supplies that you may need for breeding include K-Y jelly and a length of gauze with which to muzzle the female should it be necessary to keep her from biting you or the stud. Some females put up a fight while others are calm. It is therefore best to be prepared.

It is wise for both parties to have the terms of the transaction clearly understood before the breeding starts. At the time of the breeding, the stud fee is expected to be paid promptly. A return service is normally offered in case the female misses or fails to produce one live puppy. The owner of the stud dog usually sets the conditions of the service and there are no standard rules covering this. The stud fee is paid for the act, not the result. If the female fails to conceive, it is customary for the owner to offer a free return service; but this is a courtesy and not to be considered a mandatory, especially in the case of a proven stud. Stud dog owners are always anxious to see their clients get good value and to see winning young stock in the ring by their dog.

If the return service has been provided and the female dog has missed a second time, that is considered to be the end of the matter and the owner would be expected to pay a further fee if it is felt that the female should be given a third chance with the stud dog. The owner of a stud dog and his visiting females is quite a task, and a stud fee has usually been well earned when one service has been achieved.

One live puppy is considered as an accepted litter. It is ideal to have a printed breeding certificate to which the owner of the stud dog and the owner of the female dog both sign. This should list in detail the conditions of the breeding as well as the dates of the mating. On some occasion, arrangements other than a stud fee in cash are made for a breeding, such as the owner of the stud taking a pick from the litter puppy in lieu of money. This should be clearly specified on the breeding certificate along with the terms of the age at which the stud's owner will select the puppy, whether it is to be a boy or a girl, or whether it is to be the pick of the entire litter.

An alternative means of discipline for your dog is known as the �shakedown.� This method is suggested for shy dogs and for dogs who have large jowls (St. Bernards, Newfoundlands, some boxers), for whom chin discipline would not be as effective. This is also suggested as an alternative method for puppies, until they are at least six months old.

Note: Physical discipline should be reserved for serious dog crimes only, and not to be used for every episode of bad behavior. Verbal correction might suffice for many dogs, but you should know more than one method of discipline before the unfortunate necessity of using one arises.

In the shakedown the dog is sitting, anchored in place with tension on the training collar. When you have seated the dog, and are sure it will not move, wheel around in front of it and kneel down. Grasp the scruff of the dog's neck with both hands and lift it right off its front feet into the air. Look directly into the dog's face, and shake the dog back and forth in quick, firm motions, gradually lowering the dog. Scold the dog while you look at it, and keep it elevated a good thirty seconds. It may be difficult to raise some larger breeds, in which case you will have to sacrifice this part of the procedure. Most dogs, however, can be lifted up off their front feet with a little effort.

After discipline in this fashion, the dog will be shaken up mentally and physically. Eye contact is essential. When you grasp the dog under its chin, make sure that you have one or both thumbs looped under the training collar, to stop the dog from breaking away. With your fingers, grab hold of quite a bit of neck scruff, and hold it firmly.

For young puppies amend this method somewhat. First, cut down on the intensity and duration of your correction. A young pup should be disciplined by simply grabbing with one hand the scruff of the neck and giving it a good shake. This method approximates the technique a mother of a litter uses to keep order in the litter, to stop fighting between litter members, or to help wean her pups away from her to solid food. Discipline methods that reflect instinctual canine behavior will communicate displeasure in ways a dog can understand. Other corrections like throwing or hitting the dog with objects, spanking with newspapers, or simple pleading only serve human, not canine, ends, and do not communicate displeasure clearly to the dog.

Well-bred Poodles are hardy, long-lived dogs who enjoy good health all their days. However, Poodles can be subject to certain health conditions, and the wise Poodle puppy buyer should be aware of these problems and avoid them whenever possible.

As with humans, Poodles have many health concerns that are hereditary in nature. Many of these can be avoided by careful investigation on the new owner's part by asking the breeder about the health background of the puppy's parents. For example, have the parents been tested for such conditions as cataracts that can cause blindness? Does either of the parents have epilepsy and, if so, how is it controlled? Has either parent experienced orthopedic problems and, if so, how serious were they?

Here we take a closer look at some health conditions that have been found in Poodles as well as many other breeds of dog. Please note that not all Poodles experience these conditions. However, it behooves the puppy buyer to be well informed regarding potential health concerns of the breed under consideration. Also note that responsible breeders do not breed from any dog that is known to have or carry any hereditary problems.

Poodle Eye Problems: A cataract is a cloudiness or film over the lens of the eye, categorized by age of onset, location on the eye and stage of the cloudiness. This condition is hereditary, and parents should be tested before breeding takes place to prevent this condition from being passed on.

Glaucoma, a leading cause of blindness, is caused by an increase in fluid pressure within the eye. It can be hereditary, and parents should be tested prior to breeding. Miniature Poodles are prone to narrow-angle glaucoma, which produces pain and redness in the eyes. The treatment is medical and/or surgical.

Progressive retinal atrophy, or PRA, refers to inherited disorders affecting the retina of the eye. Visual impairment is slow but progressive. Night blindness can be the first signal of trouble, and there is no known way to stop onset.

Poodle Skin Problems: Atopic dermatitis refers to an unusual or atypical condition of the derma or skin. It can be difficult to diagnose.

Sebaceous adenitis is inflammatory damage to hair follicles and sebaceous glands. It is most often seen in Standard Poodles but also seen in Toys and Miniatures. It is a hereditary condition. There is no known cure, but treatment to control it includes frequent bathing
to reduce surface scale and to increase moisture to the skin.

Color dilution alopecia is an anomaly that usually occurs in dogs bred for unusual coat colors, such as those described as "blue," which is a diluted form of black. The condition, when it occurs, is not curable. Moisturizers and frequent shampooing can lessen the incidence of dry, scaly skin.

Seborrhea is an abnormal and excessive discharge from the sebaceous glands in the skin; it must be treated medically.

Even the gentlest, most loving dog can be induced to bite. Dogs' teeth are important tools, and every dog is aware of their potential use as offensive or defensive weapons.

Every dog has a bite threshold (a point beyond which, if pushed, he will bite). Some dogs' bite thresholds are low; some are high. Aggression is caused by stress. Each thing that causes a dog stress is a small building block toward that dog's bite threshold. The lower a particular dog's bite threshold is and the more things that cause that dog stress, the more likely he is to bite.

The four common dog stressors are: small children under age 4; thunder; men with beards; and moderate to severe pain.

The longer a dog's list of stressors, the more likely he is to eventually bite someone. This is why early and ongoing socialization is critically important. It may be the best thing you can do to ensure that your pet lives a long and happy life.

An open line of communication between owner and dog does not always ensure that the messages sent will be received correctly. A common instance in which unintentional messages are sent to a dog is during a fearful episode. The dog encounters a frightening object, event, or person and displays a variety of fear reactions, which may include shaking, barking, and backing away. The owner then sends out messages to comfort and assure the dog that there is no reason to be fearful.

These messages are highly potent as the owner lovingly strokes the dog and commiserates with a cross between baby talk and sincere empathy, "It's okay, no one will hurt you." The message the owner intends to send to the dog is the information that the situation is not threatening. The message the dog receives through the stroking and baby talk is that acting and being fearful is rewarding and pleasing to the owner.

Being consoled and stroked overshadows any information the dog could receive from the environment should he be allowed to remain in the situation without any intervention. Furthermore, the dog is reinforced for exhibiting fearful behavior by the pleasure of being stroked and consoled. Avoid the strong temptation to lovingly comfort the fearful dog lest he learn to act frightened for subsequent reinforcement.

The moment you decide to own a Dalmatian puppy, you need to start planning for his arrival in your home. Both you and your new family member will find the transition period much easier if your home is properly equip in advance of the arrival.

One of the first thing you need to prepare for the arrival of your new Dalmatian puppy is a crate. Every dog should have a crate of his own from the very beginning, one that he will come to know and love as his special place where he is comfortable and safe. The crate will provide an ideal setting; when you want him to be free, you can just leave the crate open. Otherwise, you can securely latch it and know that the pup is safely out of trouble. Also, if you travel with him, his crate can fit nicely in the car. A crate therefore is a very sensible and sound investment in your puppy's future safety and happiness and for your own peace of mind.

The crates that are most preferred are the wooden ones with removable side panels, which are ideal for cold weather where the panels in place to keep out drafts and in hot weather where the panels are removed to allow better air circulation. Wire crates are all suitable in the summer, but they give no protection from cold or drafts. Aluminum crates, due to the manner in which the metal reflects surrounding temperatures, are not recommended. If it is cold, so is the metal of the crate; if it is hot, the crate becomes very hot.

When you choose the puppy's crate, make sure that it is roomy enough not to be outgrown. The crate should have sufficient height so the dog can stand up in it as he gets older and sufficient area so that he can stretch out full length when relaxed. When the puppy is young, you can give him shredded newspaper to use as a bed; the papers can be replaced with a mat or towels when the dog is older. Carpet remnants are great for the bottom of the crate because they are inexpensive and can be easily replaced in case of accidents. As the dog matures and is past the chewing age, a pillow or blanket in the crate can provide warm and comfort.

If you live in an apartment , a baby's playpen for your Dalmatian puppy works great. For an older puppy use a portable exercise pen which you can use later when traveling with your dog or for dog shows. If you have a yard or an area where he can be outside in safety, it should be fenced in prior to the dog's arrival. This area does not need to be huge, but it does need to be made safe and secure. If you live in a suburban area where there are close neighbors, stockade fencing works out best. If you are out in the country where no problems with neighbors are likely to occur, then regular chain-link fencing is fine. For added precaution in both cases, use concrete blocks or railroad ties inside against the entire bottom of the fence; this reduces the chance of your dog digging his way out.

The Labrador Retriever is one of the most wonderful and amazing breeds ever developed. A Labrador puppy is a bouncy bundle of black, yellow or chocolate fun and games. A Labrador adult is one of many things. He is an excellent guide dog for those who are sightless or visually impaired: The Labrador Retriever is the breed used most often as guide dogs for the blind. Because they love to fetch for their masters, Labs are very popular as service dogs for those who are wheelchair bound.

If you work with detector dogs, the Labrador is probably your breed of choice because of his keen nose. He is one of the best breed for detecting drugs, explosives and arson. If hunting is your sport, you know that Labs are the most popular hunting companions of all the retrieving breeds. Eager-to-please, Labs also make great Therapy dogs, bringing joy to people confined to hospitals and nursing homes.

If you decide to become involved with showing for conformation or competing in obedience or field trials, once again, Labs are very popular for all three competitions. When it is time for your family to choose a pet, you probably cannot go wrong with a Labrador Retriever, especially if you are an active family on the go and want a dog who can keep up with your active lifestyle. Because of their happy-go-lucky attitude, Labs are great with children and adults. A Lab is never happier than when he is with his family. They are very funny characters who loves to entertain us endlessly.

What constitutes a "good" Labrador is outlined in the breed's official American Kennel Club (AKC) standard. Every breed has a standard that is a comprehensive list of the specific characteristics that make one breed distinct from another. You can obtain a copy of any breed's standard from the AKC. After reading a breed's standard, you should be able to visualize a well-balanced specimen of that breed. A picture, along with the narrative of a dog considered to be a very good specimen, is usually included. There really is no perfect dog. Breeders are always striving to breed dogs that come as close to the standard as possible, but when you are dealing with living creatures, the variables are numerous.

History and origin: This breed was developed in the early 19th century England and France. It is believed that the Basset Hound and some early spaniel types were mixed to produce this powerful, slower- moving breed known for his endurance and his excellent sense of smell. The Clumber's strength enables him to move well through dense brush in pursuit of game.

Description: The Clumber Spaniel stands 17 to 20 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 55 and 85 pounds. His low-riding body is heavy and strong, with a thicker-boned structure than the other spaniels. His shedding weather-resistant coat is thick, straight, and soft and easily absorbs odors. He needs regular brushing and periodic clipping to keep the coat clean and tangle free. The color is white with lemon markings and the tail is docked.

About the breed: The Clumber Spaniel is a beautiful, brave, and reliable working dog that is excellent in retrieving. Although he is bigger, slower, and less energetic than the other spaniels, he is still a very active breed. He is reliable with his family members, though he may be suspicious of strangers and may not tolerate small children roughhousing with him. Like most spaniels, the Clumber tends to be possessive of his food and toys. This must be addressed from the time the dog is a puppy; the owner must handle his food bowl and toys regularly and must establish himself as the leader of the pack from day one.

Because of their obstinate nature and their incredible scenting ability (both traits inherited from the Basset Hound), Clumbers are easily distracted by smells and will ignore you completely if you do not start training early. The recall command is particularly hard to teach to a Clumber, or to any other breed possessing an acute sense of smell. It is important not to let this breed become overweight, due to his long back and short legs. Obese Clumber Spaniels can develop back, hip, leg, and wrist problems. They can also be susceptible to ear infections, so it is important to clean your dog's ears at least once a week. Entropion, a folding in of the eyelids, can also occur in this dog. This can be treated only through surgery. Tear duct infections are also likely to occur with this breed.

Feeding: Recommended feeding for this breed is 1 � � 2 � cans of high-quality meaty product (13.3oz) with biscuit added in equal amount or 5 cupfuls of a complete, dry dog food.

Ideal home: The Clumber Spaniel is best suited in a house with a fenced yard, though he can adapt to apartment living as long as he is getting enough exercise. The owner of this breed must be a firm leader and must not spoil the dog, for fear of increasing his tendency toward possessive aggression. Older children should be taught not to wrestle or roughhouse with the dog. This breed may not tolerate young children, who might be bitten over a possession issue. Early training and socialization are crucial. The elderly might be able to live with this breed if they have adequate leadership skills.

Clients convey a great deal about their feelings by their tone of voice, the words they use to describe things, and their facial and body language. In client-centered counseling, these facts are of central importance - they are tools for motivating owners.

During initial fact-finding interviews, you must bear in mind that clients do not contact you just because they think or hope you can help. This is only the intellectual portion of the picture. Most seek professional help because they are emotionally upset. This is their motivation.

This is also why many initial contacts with clients contain all the trappings of a grievance interview about the pet. The client feels any of the full range of emotions, and may even display some of them. At this stage, it may seem a waste of time to listen to what appears to be irrational, often unrelated elements of a problem. However, the fact that the client mentions them makes them relevant. So, we must ascribe importance to this information. We also have to ask questions that assure the client that we are genuinely interested in them.

The client may say, "When I got home and saw pieces of that pillow strewn all over the house, I could have killed the little bastard." Or, "When I saw that pillow torn to shreds, I wanted to sit down and cry." These statements tell us a great deal about the client's feelings at the time of homecoming, but nothing about what they did.

Two elements of counseling must be applied to each statement:

1. The client needs to know that we understand their feelings, through our responses, such as, "I can appreciate that," or "That's understandable".

2. We must know what the client did about their feelings of mayhem or despair. The client often describes his or her actions without rationalizing if you have effectively communicated your empathy. An open-ended, non-leading, follow up question is called for, such as, "What did you do then?"

If you are lucky enough to develop an idea of both the client's general behavior and attitude, all is well. More often, however, we'll get an earful about the dog's behavior, which is also useful, of course. It is unwise to call the client's attention to their tendency to focus on the pet. Instead, you should merely rephrase the query about what the client did, after acknowledging the dog's behavioral response. For example, "I can see how you felt. What were you doing then?" This accomplishes two things: It provides operational descriptions of what happened, and it helps establish an initial degree of rapport between counselor and client.

Melody Dalmatians have been in existence since 1964, during which time their owners, Jack and Beth White, have produced several Best in Show dogs, five Top Ten Dogs, one Dalmatian Club of America National Specialty Best in Specialty Show winner, two National Specialty Best of Opposite Sex winners, and too many Specialty winners to count. They won Best in Futurity the first year it was held in Chicago, and also still hold the title of All-Time Top Producing Bitch of the breed: Champion Melody Sweet, C.D., who is responsible for 16 champions, including two multiple Group winners. The Whites have also bred two other Top Producing bitches, Champion Melody Up-Up and Away, who is the dam of 15 champions; and her sister, Champion Melody Crimson and Clover, C.D. with eight, including two Group winners.

Melody Dalmatians are house-raised on the Whites' Rim Rock Ranch, just outside of Fort Collins, Colorado. The Whites raise the dogs on the ranch in the Foothills, where they grow up with Appaloosa race horses, cattle, and even a few coyotes. They show on a limited basis, mostly within Colorado, yet are usually well represented at the National Specialty. Among their Dalmatians are two International, Mexican, and American Champions, including Champion Melody Ring of Fire of BB, C.D., who won the Mexican National Specialty and also a Group 1st at the International Shows at the ripe old age of ten years. His daughter, Champion Melody Penny Lane, secured her foreign titles when seven and-a-half years old.

The Whites like to get in some obedience work with the dogs, too, although the pressures of other interests have unfortunately kept their obedience titles to a minimum. They do hope to become more active in the obedience rings soon. A fact in which the Whites take special pleasure is that their home-breds have won both the Dalmatian Club of America Specialty and the Canadian National Specialty. The latter win was gained by Melody Moonlight Gambler who won Best of Breed from the classes and was also High Scoring Dog in Trial at the same show.

Needless to say, they were quite proud of him and of his owners. This was in 1984. It is very impressive to look at pedigrees and note the consistency with which the Melody influence has been felt in the breed. This kennel has certainly made a major contribution to the Dalmatian world, and deserves tremendous credit for the success attained with their dogs and the descendants of these dogs.

There are a few dog feeders who foolishly insist that meat is the only thing a dog should ever be fed. Meat alone is entirely inadequate for a dog. The foremost deficiency in a diet of meat is its lack of calcium. lf the meat is trimmed of fat there is also likely to occur a deficiency in energy. There are numerous other deficiencies, but none as dramatic as these two.

Meat, nevertheless, is the single most important source of protein fed to dogs. Thousands of tons of horse meat and beef are used each year in producing commercial dog foods. Hundreds of tons more are fed as a supplement to commercial foods or in home-made rations.

When fed as an addition to a balanced commercial food, meat can be added up to 10 percent of the weight of the mixture. When added in any greater amounts it will dilute the commercial food to the extent that the diet will no longer be balanced or adequate. When used as the sole source of protein in a home-made ration, meat should constitute at least 25 percent of the total weight of the diet. However, home-made rations should ever contain more than 75 percent of its weight as meat

All meats except pork can be fed to a dog either cooked or raw, but will usually furnish more nourishment in the raw state. Vitamins are destroyed by the heat of cooking. Fat also is driven out of meat during cooking, and unless it is poured back into the ration, it will become lost as an energy source. The only real justification for feeding a dog cooked meat in a homemade ration is because it is pork, or because the dog does not like raw meat. Dogs having a genuine dislike for raw meat are few and far between.

The nature of the animal from which the meat comes does not seem to be too important where protein is concerned. Nutritionally, most proteins from different animals seem to be about equal. For years it was contended by some dog owners that pork could not be fed to dogs. Feeding experiments do not find this to be true. In fact, pork liver is probably among the most nutritious livers commonly available to dogs. The only restriction which pork has when being fed to dogs is that it be cooked.

Whether your dog's ears are long and droopy, or short and catlike, they require attention to make sure that they stay clean and free of problems. Ears produce wax, trap dirt, grow hair, retain moisture, and can easily develop infections when they are neglected. Check your dog's ears every day. lf your dog is used to you handling his ears then he will be more comfortable with it when a professional groomer or vet has to examine them. In addition, spend more time making sure the ears are clean during grooming sessions.

Below are eight suggestions that you can apply to make sure that your dog's ears are in good condition:

1. First, examine your dog's ears. Check the outside for tangles and parasites, which often gravitate toward the ears. Check the insides for dirt and excessive wax buildup. Your dog's ears should be clean. A little ear wax is normal, but large amounts of ear wax that looks reddish brown or streaky or smells funny should be consulted with the vet.

2. Next, check for hair inside the ear. Ear tiny hair can trap dirt, bacteria, and moisture inside the ear canal, causing infection. If you like, you may trim the hair inside the ears for a neater appearance.

3. To trim ear hair, pull the ear back over the dog's head, laying it flat against the skull. This will shut off the delicate parts of the ear canal.

4. For dog ears that contain long ear hair, pluck out each hairs with your fingers. If you find this difficult, dip your fingers in a little ear powder to make it easier to grasp the hairs. Don't pluck out more than two hairs at one time because this could be painful for your dog. You may use ear hair forceps, which are small tweezers made for plucking ear hair but again, only pluck one or two hairs at a time.

5. If the hair is short and hard to pluck, or if you prefer to cut rather than pluck, you can clip each hair with a small, blunt-tipped scissors.

6. Dust the ears with medicated ear powder if they are prone to infection. Most powders sold in pet stores will do just fine and will not cause any adverse reactions.

7. If the ears are very dirty, gently pull the ear out away from the skull to open up the ear canal and place a few drops of ear wash or mineral oil inside. Massage the base of the ear to work the cleanser down the canal. Hold the ear down for a minute to let the fluid enter the ear canal, then release your dog and let him shake his head a few times to loosen the ear wax. Check ears again and clear out loosened wax with a cotton ball or cotton swab dipped in ear wash or mineral oil.

8. For dogs with droopy ears, remember to keep all hair under the ear opening and on the inside flap of the ear trimmed short. This will increase air flow to the ear and reduce the chance of infections.

Up until the late fifties and early sixties, the successful outcome of many surgical procedures for older dogs was somewhat uncertain. This was due in small part to the surgical techniques and materials employed at the time, but primarily to the types of anesthetics that were available then. Those anesthetics were often unpredictable, sometimes produced longer periods of anesthesia than were needed for the operation, and they had to be detoxified and eliminated largely by the liver and kidneys, organs which usually are already under stress in the older dog.

These problems sometimes prompted many conscientious veterinarians to advise clients that "your dog is too old to anesthetize or be operated on." What they were really saying was that the risk from surgery and anesthesia was at least as great, or greater, than the risk from whatever was wrong with the dog.

Today that situation has radically changed. Anesthetizing a seriously ill older dog is still in the high-risk category, but the chances of a successful outcome are tremendously improved. The new types of anesthetics give excellent control over the depth and time of anesthesia and allow for rapid recovery to a normal, conscious state. Many of the newer and much safer injectable anesthetics can be used alone for general anesthesia or, in combination with some gas anesthetics, to provide "balanced anesthesia." And certainly, the ready availability of artificial respirators which can breathe for your dog has both increased the overall safety of anesthesia as well as permitted surgery within the chest cavity for some types of cardiac and lung disorders.

No dog should be considered "too old" for surgery or anesthesia if otherwise in reasonable health. The aging kidneys and liver still must detoxify much of the anesthetic, aging lungs can make inhalant anesthetics more difficult to control, and heart disease does increase the overall danger. There still is risk, but it is a calculated risk, usually weighted on the side of success.

In today's modern veterinary hospitals and clinics, surgery is done under conditions similar to those found in human hospitals. Everything is done to keep the surgical area sterile, which includes doctors scrubbing before surgery and wearing sterile cap, mask, and gown. All instruments, surgical drapes, and any piece of equipment that will come in contact with the patient is sterilized. The surgery is performed in a separate operating room, which is used only for sterile surgery. While each operating room will vary in the variety of equipment available, it will have whatever is needed for the particular operation being done. If your veterinarian's hospital is not equipped to perform a particular type of surgery, he will refer you to a colleague who does have the necessary equipment, or he may do the surgery himself but in his colleague's hospital.

What happens if your dog consumed a extremely large amount of chocolate. Could this hurt her? If so, what should or could be done when this happens?

Chocolate can be very dangerous to dogs. It can also be harmless. It's unpredictable. Here is how it works: Chocolate contains a chemical called methylxanthine that is eliminated by the dog's liver. Some can handle it; others can't. If your dog's liver is not built for chocolate, she can have convulsions and die due to severe liver damage. A dog suspected of having eaten chocolate should have vomiting induced. This is best followed by rinsing of the stomach by a veterinarian.

What if your dog has had chocolate in small amounts from time to time without a problem? Can you assume that she'll always do fine with it? Again, we can't predict, but we can say that if your dog has a known liver problem, you are taking a major risk by letting her have chocolate.

Remember that most (if not all) dogs are chow hounds. They are eating machines. No matter how well trained, they are not to be trusted with food. Protect their health by providing only excellent dog food in measured meals. If goodies like chocolate may be accessible, remember Murphy's law: Any chocolate that can go wrong, will.

The �Retrieve� must be learned step by step. First, you should teach your dog to take a very light dumbbell and hold it. Even though a handler has never tried this with his dog he should be able to accomplish it in one lesson. If you are training a dog who refused to retrieve when some other method was used, and he has become stubborn or frightened, it might take two or three lessons. The length of time it takes will depend upon your skill in using your voice as you tighten his collar.

Teaching a dog to retrieve is one of persuasion, and your voice is your most important asset here. You must use your dog's name repeatedly before each command and do so in a most persuasive tone of voice. Your voice should be kept low, firm, and pleasant, and you should talk to the dog continually as you urge him to take the dumbbell. When your dog takes it, you should immediately sound very pleased and praise him happily and excitedly as you pet him.

Never raise your voice in anger or impatience; if the dog appears to be stubborn, never shove the dumbbell in your dog's mouth or against his gums, never jerk your dog's collar, and don't hit him over the head with the dumbbell. Be gentle but firm with him at all times.

Start your dog in a quiet corner and keep him on a leash for the first three steps. Place the dumbbell under, in front of, and close to, your dog's upper lip, and as you tell him to "Get it," put your third finger behind his canine tooth. This will open his mouth slightly and you can gently slide the dumbbell into his mouth. If you can't use your right hand to open his mouth, use the index finger of your left hand. Quickly tell your dog to "Hold it," as you stroke his nose on top, in one direction away from his nose, with your right hand, and you stroke him under the chin with your left hand. By stroking him this way you will keep the dumbbell in his mouth. You should be praising him as you do this. Keep the dumbbell in your dog's mouth for two or three seconds at first so he can get the feel of it.

Most dogs accept the dumbbell gracefully and hold it firmly the first time. This is especially true of puppies who will actually reach out to take it and hold it for you. However, some dogs will put up a struggle, and you will have to hold their jaws closed gently with both hands around their muzzles as you command them firmly, but quietly, to "Hold it." Generally speaking, the majority of dogs will hold the dumbbell if you are gentle with them and talk to them reassuringly. Be careful not to bang the dog's teeth with the dumbbell.

After placing the dumbbell in your dog's mouth two or three times to get his reaction to it, teach him to take it by himself. Slide your dogs medium link chain or heavy nylon choke collar up high on his neck, behind his ears and high under his chin, and hold it in your left hand. Your right hand will be holding the dumbbell. By pushing against the dead ring with your thumb you will be able to draw the collar into the palm of your hand very steadily and smoothly. Do not jerk the collar, just tighten it smoothly and quickly. When the dog takes the dumbbell you should let go of his collar immediately and praise him.

When scientists study dog sounds, they identify a number of different vocalizations with different nuances of meaning. There are two important factors to attend to in dog vocalizations. The first is the pitch of the sound. For barks and other sounds, low-pitched sounds usually indicate threats, anger, and the possibility of aggression, while higher-pitched sounds can mean fear or pain or, where they are less sharp, pleasure or playfulness.

The second factor in dog vocalizations is the frequency or repetition rate of the sound. Sounds that are repeated often, at a fast rate, indicate a degree of excitement and urgency. Sounds that are spaced out or not repeated usually indicate a lower level of excitement or a passing state of mind.

In addition, the duration of the sounds is also important. High-pitched sounds of short duration frequently indicate fear or pain. On the other hand, the same sounds repeated at a slower rate indicate playfulness or anticipation of pleasure. Generally speaking, more sustained sounds indicate intentionality, behavior that is about to happen, such as the low-pitched, sustained growl that precedes an attack.

It is a common trait for all Pit Bulls to demonstrate some level of aggressive behavior toward a strange dog. It is in their inherent nature to do so. It is a trait that was emphasized to them during their early breeding as fighting Pit Bulls and one that is difficult to possess in today's society. Pit Bulls were bred for many generations to be fighting dogs. But just because they were originally bred to fight does not mean that they are vicious dogs. That is not the case at all. However, it is accurate to say that many Pit Bulls are naturally inclined to behave confidently and sometimes aggressively toward other dogs. It is also accurate to say that most of them are naturally inclined to win a fight should another dog start it.

Pit Bulls that stem from genetic lines that were producing fighting dogs are more inclined to have this tendency than Pit Bulls from lines that were not selected for fighting in recent a generation. In any case, regardless of how long it has been since your dog's ancestors were used for fighting, his instinct and ability to fight another dog remains with him. It is in his blood and one of his original reasons for existence. So keep in mind that the gentlest and calmest of Pit Bulls who will never dare start a fight will also never dare back down from one that another dog has started.

Each breed of dog has a tendency to do what its genes tell it to do. Refusing to accept that fact is not only unfair but irresponsible. Denying that your Pit Bull's heritage is one of gameness and toughness is like denying that a Golden Retriever has a tendency to retrieve. On the other hand, retrievers are not the only breed that is inclined to retrieve, just as the Pit Bulls are not the only breed that is inclined to fight. If you are adamant about not getting a dog that carries the possibility of being aggressive or fighting with another dog, then it is wise to not get more than one Pit Bull.

With all types of dog breeds out there, there is always a great deal of variation. Many Pit Bulls get along wonderfully with other dogs while some may not get along with them at all. There are also many breeds out there that are far less tolerant of living with other dogs than Pit Bulls are. Although Pit Bulls that were brought up in a fighting environment and came from fighting lines are most likely inclined to be aggressive toward other dogs, other breeds that were raised in the most friendliest of homes and came from the gentlest of lines may not get along with other dogs.

You will need something that is referred to as an "ex-pen" if your puppy cannot be confined to the kitchen or other safe area by means of doors or gates. The exercise-pen will keep your puppy safe and in one place, but it also allows him room to play, have access to water and use newspapers if he is a latchkey puppy with no one home during the day to take him outside. The "gate" mentioned is the good old baby gate which is now sold online and in pet stores as a "pet gate." Choose one that fits your doorway securely, is high enough that the pup cannot easily jump over it, and is constructed so the pup will not be encouraged to try his climbing techniques.

Many objects are irresistibly chewable, but not if first sprayed with a deterrent such as Grannick's Bitter Apple. The puppy will only accept this device as a barrier if he is taught to respect it as such. Another handy item is a window barrier that enables you to leave a car window partially open when you have to leave him in the car (in his crate or seat belt) for a few minutes, or while driving. This is also similar to a baby gate, and adjusts to the size of your car window. Speaking of which, the canine seat belt is the latest car safety feature to keep dogs out of the driver's lap. You should never leave any dog in any car in warm weather for any length of time. Heatstroke is rapid and fatal. When your puppy is older, you may want a back-seat barrier to keep a large dog safely in the back seat of a car or in the back space of a station wagon.

Dog waste has to be disposed of, and there are several easy ways to do it. Pooper scoopers are easy to use clean-up tools, and backyard waste systems that work with natural enzymes are a popular means of disposal. More and more towns are enforcing ordinances requiring owners to pick up after their dogs in all public areas. All responsible dog owners today carry disposable plastic mitts, or plastic sandwich bags. Put your hand in the bag, pick up the excrement, fold the plastic down over your hand and carry it home or to the nearest trash bin in one of the fabric zip bags on the market.

Your puppy will be curious with every new person that comes across his path. The natural instinct of most puppies is to pull you toward a person to say "hello." Don't make the mistake as a puppy owner by assuming every person on the street will be just as excited about your puppy as you are. Not every person is a dog lover. Many people don't like dogs and some people have serious allergies to dogs. Other people may think your puppy is adorable, but may be in a hurry and not have time to greet your puppy.

Respect the space of others. Why let your puppy get away with something that most parents wouldn't allow their toddlers to do? Make it a rule never to let your puppy pull toward strangers. By letting your puppy pull towards people, you are setting a pattern for your puppy to pull you along to greet any person. You're teaching your puppy that he can control you.

If someone is interested in saying "hello" to your pup, then place your pup in a sit to keep him from jumping up. Move out of the traffic flow so pedestrians don't have to maneuver around you. It's also a good idea to watch for senior citizens on the street. Many don't appreciate a puppy taking a sudden jump on them. If you see a person approaching with a cane or a walker, particularly on a narrow street, be considerate and move to a safety zone area and let the person pass. If you are passing from behind, slow your puppy and give direction to the person ahead on which side you intend to pass. Use a calm voice to warn them if you are passing on their left or on their right, and tell your puppy "On by" as you pass.

Pedestrian traffic will be coming towards you on your left side, so always give your puppy less of a lead when people are approaching. I have often seen pedestrians get their legs tied up in a puppy's long lead. When approaching a group of people on the street, don't try to negotiate your way through them. You are better off moving to a far side of the sidewalk, or into an alcove of a storefront and waiting for the group to pass. Eventually, after many walks with your dog � he will become accustomed to your routine and avoid confusion when out in the public.

Dogs and men have been together as close companions for the last ten thousand years, if not longer. The origin of the domestic dog is still somewhat unclear. We know, for example, that when men and dogs began to live together, the only other animal with comparable dental characteristics was the wolf. The wolf is certainly the dog's ancestor, but he may not be the only ancestor. Most authorities believe that the dog is directly descended from the wolf, while others subscribe to a modified theory that teams up the wolf with some other close relative, who may have looked more like a dog. For those interested in training or just in becoming better friends to their dogs, one fact is important to remember: every dog claims the wolf as an ancestor. Understanding wolf behavior will help you to understand your dog.

There is still a great deal of prejudice against the wolf. Today it surfaces when environmentalists and others clash with those who believe that wolves deplete the deer population and attack livestock and even small children. (The fact is, the wolf can aid deer survival by eliminating the weaker members of a herd.) Since the wolf is a pack animal, it is sociable with its own kind but wary of humans, unless raised in captivity from a young age.

Many people confuse the hunting habits of the wolf with those of the fox. Though the wolf moves pretty much with the pack, the fox is a solitary hunter. Wolves invariably stay as far away from humans as possible. Unfortunately, prejudice against the wolf thwarts a possible way of appreciating the dog, since wolf and dog have striking similarities. Both are innately
pack-oriented and prefer not to be isolated for long periods of time. Both are hunters who chase down their prey instead of ambushing it like some of their other close relatives. Both are responsive to leadership from an "Alpha-figure" to whom they look for order and directives. Both use a wide array of body language to communicate within the pack and with outsiders. Some researchers have noted the presence of a kind of altruistic love in wolf packs, the willingness to please another member of the pack without any reward, and the
ability to show caring. These last two traits are well known in domestic dogs.

To learn about dogs, learn about wolves. Research books on Cams lupus, and they will provide you with invaluable background about your dog and its behavior. If you reflect on the behavior of wolves, as reported in these books, you will discover an ironic fact: many books on wolves will help you to understand and appreciate your dog's behavior better than some of the dog-training manuals currently available.

When dog owners have poor leash mechanics and control over walking his or her pet, their dog will invariably pull toward strangers. Some strangers are fearful when dogs approach them in this manner. Owners make the mistake of trying to comfort a person who is fearful by saying, "It's okay, my dog is friendly, she won't bite." But this is not a comforting response to someone who is fearful of dogs or just doesn't like dogs near them. You can make the person feel more comfortable by using your leash to sit your dog at your side and giving the person some space to pass. When a person sees a pulling dog and an owner being pulled off balance, the perception is lack of control.

By having your dog sit at your side, you are exhibiting to others that your dog is well trained and can be controlled. Senior citizens and parents with kids are generally more apprehensive when dogs pull too close. A pulling dog, especially if it is a big dog, can be seen as aggressive rather than friendly.

Also use this maneuver if your dog is pulling to greet a strange dog. Your dog may be friendly, but never assume a strange dog is friendly. Sometimes the consequences of a dog pulling toward a strange dog can be dangerous if the strange dog is aggressive or has a mean streak.

Be patient with yourself as you learn leash mechanics. Leash handling is like learning to drive a car or playing an instrument - it will feel a little awkward at first, but with a little practice you will improve. When puppies and dogs are out of control when out for a walk, it's because the owner has no knowledge of leash handling. Use the leash as a tool of communication as you lead your puppy on your walks.

Many owners frustrate or confuse their dogs because of poor leash mechanics. The dog will only do what you are directing him to do. If you don't know how to maneuver your dog, don't expect your dog to read your mind. You will only frustrate your dog. Frustrated dogs either become more aggressive or learn to tune you out all together.

Smart leash handling is essential in the city, particularly in tight, congested areas. By learning how to maneuver your dog on leash, you not only keep your dog safe at your side, but you also are practicing good dog owner etiquette. Your dog won't be a nuisance to other people and other dogs that you meet along the way.