Tampilkan postingan dengan label puppy. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label puppy. Tampilkan semua postingan
Senin, 03 November 2014
Adoptable 8 week old Basset Hound puppy
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| Grace, 8 weeks old |
Im proud to have started off that media frenzy by first reporting on this seemingly unbelievable story. If you havent read it and are interested in finding out how growing corn and selling Christmas trees can make you a criminal, here it is: Oakland Township puts squeeze on cider mill.
So youre wondering, what in the heck does this cider mill news story have to do with dogs?
Ah, well, I have your answer.
The owner of that cider mill is Tom Barkham. Tom owns both the Paint Creek Animal Clinic and a second veterinary practice in Dryden.
Seeing as how the cider mill is closed this time of the year, and cold, the Barkhams suggested we meet at the veterinary practice in Goodison instead.
What do you know? The dog blogger winds up surrounded by dogs even when on an entirely non-dog related assignment. I do frequently wonder how I keep ending up in situations like that. Fate, I suppose. I dont mind, anyhow, so I just go with it.
"Try not to talk about dogs, Karen," I said silently to myself. "You are not here about dogs. Dont talk about dogs."
After the interview was done and I was getting ready to leave, I saw something that just made me entirely unable to hold myself back — an 8-week-old puppy!
"Puppy!" I exclaimed, looking over at the adorable little bundle of joy. "Oh, she is so precious."
"Want to adopt her? Shes a foster," said Roxanne Priest, the woman sitting with her.
I quickly whisked out my little Flipcam. "Is she really?" I asked.
I introduced myself, told her about The Dog Blog and offered to shoot a short video of the sweet little girl.
And so, here ya go — this is one good looking puppy!
You can find out more about Grace by going to MichiganBassetRescue.org or calling 248-623-1698.
Kamis, 16 Oktober 2014
Housebreaking Your Puppy If You Live In An Apartment
Housebreaking a puppy in an apartment with no yard is more difficult, but it is not impossible. An area that your puppy can use as a toilet area will need to be found close to the apartment. Since this may be a considerable distance for your puppy to walk, it becomes even more important that you take him out every hour. You will also need to be extra watchful to your puppy's signs of wanting to relieve himself well in advance.
Different puppies learn at different rates. Some pick up what is required almost instantly, others may take much longer. Some take as long as six months or more. A puppy that came from a dirty or cramped kennel is likely to take longer than one that had a better start.
The biggest influence on how quickly a puppy becomes housebroken is how much time and effort you put in. More input from you will speed up the time taken to become completely clean; while less input will prolong the process.
Senin, 13 Oktober 2014
The Proper Feeding Procedure For your Puppy
The growing puppy should be weighed once a week for the first six months of his life. The weekly growth rate, which starts from weaning to six months, should be very constant that it forms a straight line when plotted on a graph. The amount of food consumed by a fast growing puppy should be increased at almost the same rate as the puppy's growth. The only way to make sure this increase in food consumption happens at the proper rate is to feed a puppy from a self-feeder. Whenever a puppy eats everything he is fed, add a little more, so that you are always offering the puppy just a little more than he will eat.
Puppies obtained after weaning should already have an established feeding program from the previous owner. You should make every effort to find out everything you can about the type of feeding program from the old owner. The old owner should provide you with information that includes the type of food that the puppy is currently eating as well as the feeding times. In addition, the previous owner should tell you the amount of food given, so that you can duplicate them for at least a few days until the puppy has become used to his new surroundings.
Do not be afraid to change the old routine, however. Such a change is one of those that are considered acceptable when it comes to dog feeding. Do not be misled into feeding your new puppy exactly the same way his previous owner was feeding him, just because you feel that the breeder is an experienced dog feeder. Just because that person is a breeder does not necessary make him/her an expert in dog feeding. In many cases, most breeders, in their innocent ignorance, felt they were doing one of their puppies and his new owner a favor by passing their misinformation along. If you feel that there is a need to change your new puppy's diet or feeding method, feel free to do so. Once the puppy is familiar to his new home and the people that go with it, you can begin introducing him to a new feeding habit. Just remember to do it slowly, one step at a time.
Kamis, 02 Oktober 2014
Crate Training Your Puppy
Crate Size:
A crate should always be large enough to permit the dog to stretch out flat on his side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting his head on top. It is always better to use a crate a little too large rather than one a little too small. Measure the dog from the tip of the nose to the base (not tip) of the tail. Allow for growth by adding about 12 inches. A crate too large can be made smaller by adding a partition of wire, wood or masonite. Remember, a crate too large for a young puppy defeats its purpose of providing security and promoting bowel control.
Location:
Since one of the main reasons for using a crate is to confine a dog without making him feel isolated or banished, it should be placed in, or as close to, a “people” area—kitchen, family room, etc. To provide even a greater sense of security and privacy, it should be put back in a corner. Admittedly, a crate is not a “thing of beauty,” but it can be forgiven for not being a welcome addition to the household décor as it proves how much it can help the dog to remain a welcome addition to the household.
Crating a Puppy:
A young puppy (8-16 weeks) should normally have no problem accepting a crate as his “own place.” Any complaining he might do at first is not caused by the crate, but by his learning to accept the controls of his new environment. Actually the crate will help him to adapt more easily and quickly to his new world.
Place the crate in a people area and, if possible, in a spot free from drafts and not too near a direct heat source. For bedding, use an old towel or piece of blanket that can be easily washed. You may also want to include some freshly worn, unlaundered clothing such as a tee shirt, old shirt, etc. Avoid putting newspaper in or under the crate, since its odor may encourage elimination. A puppy should not be fed in the crate and will only spill a bowl of water.
Make it clear to all family members that the crate is not a playhouse. It is meant to be a “special room” for the puppy, whose rights should be recognized and respected. You should, however, accustom the puppy from the start to letting you reach into the crate at any time, lest he become overprotective of it.
Establish a “crate routine” immediately, closing the puppy in it at regular intervals during the day (his own chosen nap times can guide you) and whenever he must be left alone for up to 3-4 hours. Give him a chew toy for distraction and be sure to remove collar and tags which could get caught in an opening.
The puppy should be shown no attention while in the crate. Dogs tend to be much better psychologists than their owners—often training the owner, rather than the owner training the puppy. Any attention shown to the puppy will simply cause the puppy to believe that whining, crying, etc., is all that is needed for him to get more attention.
The puppy should be taken outside last thing every night before being put into the crate. Once he goes into the crate, he should stay there until first thing in the morning. IMMEDIATELY when the puppy is removed from the crate, he should be taken to the chosen area for his bowel eliminations.
Always feed the puppy early enough to allow ample time for bowel elimination after eating before placing the puppy in the crate. This can be up to one hour, depending on the dog. Simply clock the time after eating until the bowel movement occurs to determine this time interval for your particular puppy.
After the puppy is fully housetrained (usually 8-12 weeks of cage use), you simply can leave the door open (or take it off) and allow the puppy to come and go as he chooses. If the puppy becomes destructive during his growing phases, it is a simple matter again of confining him in the crate when he is not under your supervision.
Even if things do not go too smoothly at first- DON’T WEAKEN and DON’T WORRY! Be consistent, firm, and be very aware that you are doing your pet a real favor by preventing him from getting into trouble.
A crate should always be large enough to permit the dog to stretch out flat on his side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting his head on top. It is always better to use a crate a little too large rather than one a little too small. Measure the dog from the tip of the nose to the base (not tip) of the tail. Allow for growth by adding about 12 inches. A crate too large can be made smaller by adding a partition of wire, wood or masonite. Remember, a crate too large for a young puppy defeats its purpose of providing security and promoting bowel control.
Location:
Since one of the main reasons for using a crate is to confine a dog without making him feel isolated or banished, it should be placed in, or as close to, a “people” area—kitchen, family room, etc. To provide even a greater sense of security and privacy, it should be put back in a corner. Admittedly, a crate is not a “thing of beauty,” but it can be forgiven for not being a welcome addition to the household décor as it proves how much it can help the dog to remain a welcome addition to the household.
Crating a Puppy:
A young puppy (8-16 weeks) should normally have no problem accepting a crate as his “own place.” Any complaining he might do at first is not caused by the crate, but by his learning to accept the controls of his new environment. Actually the crate will help him to adapt more easily and quickly to his new world.
Place the crate in a people area and, if possible, in a spot free from drafts and not too near a direct heat source. For bedding, use an old towel or piece of blanket that can be easily washed. You may also want to include some freshly worn, unlaundered clothing such as a tee shirt, old shirt, etc. Avoid putting newspaper in or under the crate, since its odor may encourage elimination. A puppy should not be fed in the crate and will only spill a bowl of water.
Make it clear to all family members that the crate is not a playhouse. It is meant to be a “special room” for the puppy, whose rights should be recognized and respected. You should, however, accustom the puppy from the start to letting you reach into the crate at any time, lest he become overprotective of it.
Establish a “crate routine” immediately, closing the puppy in it at regular intervals during the day (his own chosen nap times can guide you) and whenever he must be left alone for up to 3-4 hours. Give him a chew toy for distraction and be sure to remove collar and tags which could get caught in an opening.
The puppy should be shown no attention while in the crate. Dogs tend to be much better psychologists than their owners—often training the owner, rather than the owner training the puppy. Any attention shown to the puppy will simply cause the puppy to believe that whining, crying, etc., is all that is needed for him to get more attention.
The puppy should be taken outside last thing every night before being put into the crate. Once he goes into the crate, he should stay there until first thing in the morning. IMMEDIATELY when the puppy is removed from the crate, he should be taken to the chosen area for his bowel eliminations.
Always feed the puppy early enough to allow ample time for bowel elimination after eating before placing the puppy in the crate. This can be up to one hour, depending on the dog. Simply clock the time after eating until the bowel movement occurs to determine this time interval for your particular puppy.
After the puppy is fully housetrained (usually 8-12 weeks of cage use), you simply can leave the door open (or take it off) and allow the puppy to come and go as he chooses. If the puppy becomes destructive during his growing phases, it is a simple matter again of confining him in the crate when he is not under your supervision.
Even if things do not go too smoothly at first- DON’T WEAKEN and DON’T WORRY! Be consistent, firm, and be very aware that you are doing your pet a real favor by preventing him from getting into trouble.
Selasa, 26 Agustus 2014
Puppy Training Tips Every Dog Owner Must Know
There are six standard commands: Heel, Come, Sit, Stand, Stay, and Down. With a new puppy, it does not matter too much where you begin. The important thing is to practice any old time everyday and never to be in any hurry to go to the next lesson. You do not set the pace for learning, you puppy does.
Training sessions should last only two to five minutes, which is approximately the length of your pup's attention span. If you push him longer than that, he will stop paying attention to you. This is FUN stuff! (You may also need to repeat that ten times to remind yourself occasionally.) End every session with a near-perfect performance. That could be one two-second sit, or three little "heeling" steps next to you. Tell him how "perfect" it was. Lay it on him! Really let him know how pleased you are he got it right.
Do not start a training session immediately after the pup has eaten because he'll be sleepy and those treat rewards won't be as enticing. However, you can practice at any odd time throughout the day, even if it is a three-second "stay." Your pup will love the attention.
Motivation for a puppy to do anything at all lies first in his desire to please you. Realistically,
treats run a close second. Dog biscuits do not make good training treats because they take too long to chew. Tiny bits of plain cheese are the perfect taste-treat. A thin slice of hot dog will perk up the interest of almost any dog that's not concentrating.
Rewards come in three forms: treats, pats and verbal praise. To grade your "student's" qualification for a reward, consider a treat the equivalent of an "A," a pat a "B," and verbal praise a "C." Any two together equal an A+, so be very careful not to go overboard or you'll run out of appropriate compensation and the pup will quit.
Verbal praise has a range from ecstatic (for the first few correct responses from a very young pup) to a calm "good dog" as Sparky grows up and becomes more expert. Don't overuse cheese or hot dog treats when practicing. As each word command is fully learned, gradually cut back on the treats and substitute "good dog" or just a big smile.
What you say to a puppy and how you say it can determine how quickly he learns. All conversation is perceived by the dog as meaningless sound. Try this: In the midst of some long-winded chit-chat, say his name emphatically and watch him take notice. When using the one-word training commands, remember that lesson. His name gives you his attention; one word tells him what to do. It is "Sparky, SIT" - loud and clear. Never, "Sparky, Sit. Sit. Sit. �Sparky, you're not listening - I said Sit. SIT, Sparky! "That is called nagging, and Sparky will tune you out. The puppy is not being disobedient or stubborn. He's just confused - totally! And avoid sounding like a drill sergeant! Smile, speak clearly and let the dog do the barking!
Rabu, 13 Agustus 2014
4Health Puppy Formula Dog Food 35 lb
It’s very rare to find information about private labels on their websites. All most will give is more of sales add than content information of what they offer. However, with 4Health Puppy Formula Company, you can always find out about the food before making any purchase. More to this, they are also advertised in circulars providing different avenues to access the information.
This 4Health Dog food contains egg product, millet, lamb meal, rice salmon oil among others. This forms a complete whole meal for the puppies. Feeding your puppy on a simple diet that has few ingredients not only exposes the puppy to limited proteins, but also increases the possibility of developing food allergies. The first two major ingredients are proteins, in this case lamb meal and lamb. Lamb sounds much better to many, but it contains a high percentage of water. On the other hand, lamb meal contains a greater percentage of proteins than lamb, and this makes it an excellent puppy dog foodingredient.
The egg product used is also a good source of proteins. All the nutrients it contains are easy to digest. This makes it a perfect ingredient for puppies whose system has just started to develop. In addition to the proteins are grains. These include millet, rice and cracked pearled barley. Rice has been known to be a good source of manganese and folate. However, many people keep off foods with rice content as it is said to contain arsenic.
Millet is also a reliable source of manganese as well as omega-6 fatty acid. Pearled barley, on the other hand, provides desirable quantities of manganese, dietary fiber and omega-6 fatty acid. Barley contains gluten, but millet and rice are known to be gluten free. The food also contains vitamins and chelated minerals. This means that they are proteinated, and this makes it easy for them to be absorbed.
Guaranteed Analysis:
Crude Protein 27.0% (min.), Crude Fat 15.0% (min.), Crude Fiber 3.0% (max.), Moisture 10.0% (max.), Calcium 1.2% (min.), Phosphorus 1.2% (max.), Phosphorus 1.0% (min.), Zinc 150 mg/kg (min.), Selenium 0.4 mg/kg (min.), Vitamin E 150 IU/kg (min.), L-Carnitine* 30 mg/kg (min.), Omega-6 Fatty Acids* 2.2% (min.), Omega-3 Fatty Acids* 0.3% (min.), DHA (Docosahexaenoic acid)* 0.05% (min.),
*Not recognized as an essential nutrient by the AAFCO dog food nutrient profile.
Caloric Content:
3,656 kcal/kg (342 kcal/cup) Calculated Metabolizable Energy
Price: $34.99
you can buy From Here
Rabu, 07 Mei 2014
The Right Crate For Your Dalmatian Puppy
The moment you decide to own a Dalmatian puppy, you need to start planning for his arrival in your home. Both you and your new family member will find the transition period much easier if your home is properly equip in advance of the arrival.
One of the first thing you need to prepare for the arrival of your new Dalmatian puppy is a crate. Every dog should have a crate of his own from the very beginning, one that he will come to know and love as his special place where he is comfortable and safe. The crate will provide an ideal setting; when you want him to be free, you can just leave the crate open. Otherwise, you can securely latch it and know that the pup is safely out of trouble. Also, if you travel with him, his crate can fit nicely in the car. A crate therefore is a very sensible and sound investment in your puppy's future safety and happiness and for your own peace of mind.
The crates that are most preferred are the wooden ones with removable side panels, which are ideal for cold weather where the panels in place to keep out drafts and in hot weather where the panels are removed to allow better air circulation. Wire crates are all suitable in the summer, but they give no protection from cold or drafts. Aluminum crates, due to the manner in which the metal reflects surrounding temperatures, are not recommended. If it is cold, so is the metal of the crate; if it is hot, the crate becomes very hot.
When you choose the puppy's crate, make sure that it is roomy enough not to be outgrown. The crate should have sufficient height so the dog can stand up in it as he gets older and sufficient area so that he can stretch out full length when relaxed. When the puppy is young, you can give him shredded newspaper to use as a bed; the papers can be replaced with a mat or towels when the dog is older. Carpet remnants are great for the bottom of the crate because they are inexpensive and can be easily replaced in case of accidents. As the dog matures and is past the chewing age, a pillow or blanket in the crate can provide warm and comfort.
If you live in an apartment , a baby's playpen for your Dalmatian puppy works great. For an older puppy use a portable exercise pen which you can use later when traveling with your dog or for dog shows. If you have a yard or an area where he can be outside in safety, it should be fenced in prior to the dog's arrival. This area does not need to be huge, but it does need to be made safe and secure. If you live in a suburban area where there are close neighbors, stockade fencing works out best. If you are out in the country where no problems with neighbors are likely to occur, then regular chain-link fencing is fine. For added precaution in both cases, use concrete blocks or railroad ties inside against the entire bottom of the fence; this reduces the chance of your dog digging his way out.
Jumat, 02 Mei 2014
Keeping Your Puppy Confined
You will need something that is referred to as an "ex-pen" if your puppy cannot be confined to the kitchen or other safe area by means of doors or gates. The exercise-pen will keep your puppy safe and in one place, but it also allows him room to play, have access to water and use newspapers if he is a latchkey puppy with no one home during the day to take him outside. The "gate" mentioned is the good old baby gate which is now sold online and in pet stores as a "pet gate." Choose one that fits your doorway securely, is high enough that the pup cannot easily jump over it, and is constructed so the pup will not be encouraged to try his climbing techniques.
Many objects are irresistibly chewable, but not if first sprayed with a deterrent such as Grannick's Bitter Apple. The puppy will only accept this device as a barrier if he is taught to respect it as such. Another handy item is a window barrier that enables you to leave a car window partially open when you have to leave him in the car (in his crate or seat belt) for a few minutes, or while driving. This is also similar to a baby gate, and adjusts to the size of your car window. Speaking of which, the canine seat belt is the latest car safety feature to keep dogs out of the driver's lap. You should never leave any dog in any car in warm weather for any length of time. Heatstroke is rapid and fatal. When your puppy is older, you may want a back-seat barrier to keep a large dog safely in the back seat of a car or in the back space of a station wagon.
Dog waste has to be disposed of, and there are several easy ways to do it. Pooper scoopers are easy to use clean-up tools, and backyard waste systems that work with natural enzymes are a popular means of disposal. More and more towns are enforcing ordinances requiring owners to pick up after their dogs in all public areas. All responsible dog owners today carry disposable plastic mitts, or plastic sandwich bags. Put your hand in the bag, pick up the excrement, fold the plastic down over your hand and carry it home or to the nearest trash bin in one of the fabric zip bags on the market.
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