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On Monday, I posted my response to a reader asking what to do if an unfriendly dog approaches her dog while at the park. You can read my response here: What to do if an unfriendly dog approaches ...

With my own pooch not fit for the dog park, though, its not an area I have a whole of experience with. So, I reached out to my favorite local dog trainer, Nicole Herr. She and her husband, Brian, run Herr Pet Training. They have the right knowledge about dog behavior — not all trainers do — and are capable of tackling the toughest of behavior problems. Its all about credibility for me and these two have it.

Without further ado, here is Nicoles response:

The question
“What to do if you are at the dog park with your dog and a “not friendly” dog approaches. I would love to say this never happens when we are out, but there have been a few times that I have been out with my dog and another dog comes up that is a little too aggressive (starts to show aggressive dominance behaviors like mounting). If you had any tips about how to handle while minimizing getting hurt that would be great!”

Great blog post Karen! (Gee, thanks Nicole!!) Youve written sound advice on a very tricky subject and Im going to build on that...

This is the trickiest part of a trip to the dog park ... the other dogs. Its an element you cant control for, so you need to be very alert and aware to your own dogs body language and cues of stress. If your dog begins to look stressed, it is our job as pet parents to step in and manage or remove them from the situation. Many dogs do not handle the dog park environment well. Having even a basic knowledge of canine body language will help you identify what dog-dog communications are occurring, and if your dog will fit well into the environment. 

An important note to start: While you are at the park with your dog, dont sit back and read a book.  Keep a watchful eye on your dog and stay reasonably close. Seconds matter if an altercation occurs and being a football field away is simply irresponsible. 

If I am in the dog park, I am always carrying VERY tasty treats, a loud whistle and a small air horn.  The treats can help redirect your dog if necessary and can be used as a lure for others if the need arises. The whistle and air horn are there to serve as an interrupter.  They can startle the dogs just long enough for you to step in and diffuse the situation. You should ALWAYS have your leash immediately at-hand as well. Your leash can be used a loop to quickly gain control of your dog when there isnt time to clip onto the collar. 

To go back to the original question, I am assuming that you are in the immediate vicinity of your dog when this happens and that your dog is off-leash.  If the dog approaches in an offensive and charging manner, take a step between them and give a "HEY!" to startle them. Often, something this simple will stop them or slow them down. At this point a "Please come get your dog" in a nice, loud voice will have the owner coming in for assistance.  If the dog continues to approach, use your whistle or air horn if you feel threatened (this will definitely get everyones attention). We are looking to startle them just long enough to intervene and avoid a dog fight.

"He may stand there, looking at you, confused, not quite ready to give up more of his space. Tell him to get lost. Wave him off. If it doesn’t work, stand there and hold your ground until he decides to trot away in a different direction.
If he tries to go around you, body block him. If he takes a step to his left, you take the same step to match him. Claim your space. Claim your dog. "
This is great advice from Karen.  (Thanks, Nicole!!)

A few other notes on this subject:
*Stay calm--  Your dog feeds off of your emotions, so remain calm and confident.  If you panic, so will they. 

*Dont grab for the collar — A dog in a heightened state wont know your hand from the touch of another dog. They may turn and snap at or bite you if you grab at their collar. Use your leash to loop your dog and regain control. If you need to physically remove your dog from another, do not use your hands. At that point, use your legs/shins to shove them, then loop them to regain control. 

*Avoid busy times at the park — Simply put, go when its less busy. Or visit during times when the less-than-friendly dogs are not there. 

*Report it!  — If you see a dog that is a problem, report them to park authorities. If there is no one on-site, make a report to the governing offices. Keeping the park safe is everyones responsibility. 

While I enjoy a day at the park with my dog, I highly advocate for trying a good doggie daycare, too.  The daycare is a controlled environment, where the dogs have been evaluated for temperament and personality. This keeps the "not so friendly" dogs out, as they generally dont make it past the initial screening process. 

Please keep in mind that these are general tips to keep the "not so friendly" dogs at bay. Avoiding them is the first step. If you find yourself encountering them at a park too often, let the authorities know and find a new park. Before I take my dog to a new park I will go by myself to observe and meet some people. Ask questions. Are there times to avoid? Dogs to stay away from? Take the time to find the right place for you and your dog to enjoy. 

After watching the DVD, Patient like the Chipmunks, about Bob & Marion Bailey and hearing them refer to their work as behavior technicians, it clicked that what I was doing as a “dog trainer” or even as a “behavior consultant” was not aptly described by either of those terms as much as the job of working with dogs and owners dictates.

Since seeing Bob Bailey present a two day seminar on animal training it is even more cemented in my mind that what I am doing is not simply “training dogs”. I am entering into the world of changing human behavior and demonstrating how to change dog behavior effectively, reliably and safely.

Dog training is just one aspect of what I do. Surely I can train dogs and build reliable behaviors. However that is only one part of the process. To say that I am simply a “dog trainer” is no longer accurate.

The letters after my name CTC stand for Certificate in Training and Counseling. This certification was obtained at The Academy For Dog Trainers at the SFSPCA.

I consult on behavior in sessions and through email support however there is component to consulting that extends beyond simply explaining what the potential outcomes will be for dogs and humans.

Obtaining reliable dog behavior based on following protocols would be more accurate.

That extra component of criteria based plans is where the technician side of things resides. It is also in many cases more important to address the human’s behavior first as that will in turn change the dog’s behavior.

The main function of the behavior technician is to educate the dog owner and advise on protocols that will reduce stress and increase success. The environment and the dogs’ history are the main factors in determining how to proceed with training.

The majority of the time once a dog’s environment changes for the better in regards to increasing desired behaviors and stopping the harsh stuff, the dynamic is much easier for all involved.

Humans by and large dictate the dog’s environment and the human’s mechanics & timing of rewards and humane consequences create the dog’s history.

By having proper legitimate information about dog behavior based in science, ethology, math and humane behavior modification we can then better understand human behavior as it relates to dog behavior.

This legitimate understanding is a foundation for a truly harmonious relationship with dogs. Plus as I said it is a whole lot less stressful and safe.

Once we fully understand both dog behavior and how human behavior effects dogs we can then proceed with assurance that we are doing right by our dogs and not simply getting results or “breaking” dogs of habits. Many of these “bad habits” are in fact intrinsic to a dog’s truest nature, scavenging, pulling to greet, barking or alerting to sudden environmental contrasts. All this has billions of years of genetic foundation and we’d better learn to work with it and use it to our advantage.

Once we have the legitimate information we are learning and then we are teaching dogs based on the environment, and then dogs are learning not just “obeying”.

Sure, I train dogs and of course I consult on behavior as it relates to the dog human dynamic, but “behavior is both a science and a technology” as Bob Bailey says.

There is science, mechanics, timing, sequences, and of course moods and emotions for both dogs and humans. All this needs to be taken into account and then addressed in a way to reduce stress and increase success.

The companion dog paradigm is a bond unlike any other. The variables are vast and many times unavoidable, it is not a perfect world. Despite that millions of dogs do relatively ok, work it out and maintain a level of profound dignity that us humans would do well modeling for ourselves.

By coming into someone’s life that is seeking help with their dog, the kids, the extended family & friends etc… I consider it an incredible honor and a huge amount of trust placed in me.

So I give the cases I take my all and I make sure that I am not simply training the dog. I make sure I am educating the whole dynamic to have success for the rest of the dog’s life. After all there is no guarantee they’ll call me again, so I strive to set up the dog for the rest of their life with enough proper safe info so that...


1. The people and the dog start having success.
2. So I can sleep well at night.
3. That is how I was educated.

When I say that my job is to first reduce stress and then train dogs it is mainly due to the fact that people are usually not contacting me because all is well and there are no issues.

Usually there is some type of concern ranging from basic manners issues all the way to a proven aggression incident. These issues reside squarely with the humans and how they behave, how they gave behaved and how they will behave in the future.

Reducing stress and having success with dogs is predicated on humans having the proper information for their dynamic, their life style and of course the environments that the dog will be in.

All these aspects are facilitated by human behavior. This is why even though there have been many amazing books written, DVD’s made and TV’s shows, none of these can compare to having a legitimate assessment of dog & human behavior backed by a written plan tailored to you and your dog’s life. That is what you are paying for.

Along the way even when it is serious or may be challenging I encourage fun and patience along with empathy and understanding.

This makes a real difference in the way we view our dog’s behavior or how we react to our dogs and how we interact with them (and other dogs).

By learning how to deal with situations that arise so reliability is achieved and stress is reduced and not perfection or “robot dogs” we truly create bonds and not binds.

Dogs are sentient beings and as our best friends they certainly tolerate many things in life that go against their very nature. It is my goal to help each dog and each owner better understand each other so the bond is never broken and only strengthened, so that the dog human dynamic can live up to it’s full potential.

Dogs are capable of amazing things as long the humans in their life are willing to be open and empathetic to the dog’s intrinsic nature, be patient, learn and make decisions based on humane and non violent approaches.

As Bob Bailey says, “Empower don’t over power”.

This is why I am not simply a “dog trainer”. I am a behavior technician.